I checked my oil level just before a trip and noticed it was low. I put in a 10W40 oil. Since I added this oil my idling has been off (fluctuating). I checked the oil used in my last oil change and it was 5W30.
Could the change in viscosity be messing up my idling?What if I have mixed 5W30 and 10W40 motor oils?
You would have 71/2W35 ....
it shouldn't have any effect on the idling ..
if your oil was low, you may not have had service done recently so you might need a tune up also ..What if I have mixed 5W30 and 10W40 motor oils?
I don't think it will hurt anything long term BUT... to be honest, mixing oils like this... is just not recommended. They just don't blend together very well. The molecules are different. I always keep the same oil on hand that matches the oil I run. It's a good habit to keep 1 or 2 quarts in the trunk for just such a need.
I would change the oil ASAP and let this be a lesson for you.... Don't mix oils that don't match weight and don't mix synthetics with regular oils either.
Will it hurt the engine? I don't think so but it's not good for the oil. The better oil will be degraded by the lesser oil. In a pinch, it's OK but driving a car one quart low won't hurt a engine till you get the right oil to match. Now the oil should be changed even if it was not up for a change. It's a waste.
Everything you need to know is here:
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oil鈥?/a>
yes drain all the oil right now leaving it in there will cause severe engine damage
nah
nuthing wrong with it you just better use right oil next time
It won't change the idle, just change the oil when you have time.
Depends what engine you have
ford zetec recommend 5w30
any thicker oil will cause misfunction of the hydraulic lifters
I:E bad idling
suggest you change your oil and filter
It shouldn't mess up your idling. There is a article talking about oil viscosities and what they really mean at this site:http://members.rennlist.com/oil/Motor%20鈥?/a>
Last time I checked the difference in oil didn't mess up the timing of a car. It could mess with the oil pump, though unlikely. The pump is designed to handle only the specified oil the engine was built to run with. The bad idling sounds like a bad distributor cap, ignition coil, or distributor rotor. Hope this helps.
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Is used motor oil dangerous?
Obviously, it is poison and it has to be disposed of properly. I'm curious if it causes any crazy skin conditions or weird sicknesses.Is used motor oil dangerous?
No it is not really a ';poison';, but I wouldn't recommend getting it on your skin. Unless it has PCB's or some other contaminants it won't cause any skin conditions or sickness. It is best not to get it on your skin though as unless it's been analyzed by GC-MS you don't know it's clean.
BTW Zinc, Copper, Aluminum and Carbon are not hazardous, they aren't even chemicals they're ';elements';. Your body is composed of almost 20% carbon, so how can that be considered hazardous?Is used motor oil dangerous?
Over a period of prolonged exposure used engine oil is carcinogenic i.e. it causes cancer, it should always be disposed of correctly and the correct precautions used when handling the waste oil
It does contain a lot of hazardous chemicals (zinc, copper, aluminium and carbon) so dispose of it thoughtfully. Don't dump it in drains as it will flow into stream and rivers and endanger life.
used oil is hazardous and must be disposed of responsibly,your local council should be able to advise you of a disposal point and should not incur any charges.
yes! it contains dirt in it...contaminants that you dont want..could result in blown head gasket
probably. find out, try some.
No it is not really a ';poison';, but I wouldn't recommend getting it on your skin. Unless it has PCB's or some other contaminants it won't cause any skin conditions or sickness. It is best not to get it on your skin though as unless it's been analyzed by GC-MS you don't know it's clean.
BTW Zinc, Copper, Aluminum and Carbon are not hazardous, they aren't even chemicals they're ';elements';. Your body is composed of almost 20% carbon, so how can that be considered hazardous?Is used motor oil dangerous?
Over a period of prolonged exposure used engine oil is carcinogenic i.e. it causes cancer, it should always be disposed of correctly and the correct precautions used when handling the waste oil
It does contain a lot of hazardous chemicals (zinc, copper, aluminium and carbon) so dispose of it thoughtfully. Don't dump it in drains as it will flow into stream and rivers and endanger life.
used oil is hazardous and must be disposed of responsibly,your local council should be able to advise you of a disposal point and should not incur any charges.
yes! it contains dirt in it...contaminants that you dont want..could result in blown head gasket
probably. find out, try some.
How to recycle Car/Motor Engine Oil - http://www.cqoilpurifier.diytrade.com?
If you interested in detail about how to recycling your engine oil, please feel free to contact me. (http://www.cqoilpurifier.diytrade.com)How to recycle Car/Motor Engine Oil - http://www.cqoilpurifier.diytrade.com?
here in the midwest we burn all we can find during the winter in our shopmyspace bulletins
here in the midwest we burn all we can find during the winter in our shop
Does Castor Motor Oil come from the ground or bean?
could be castro beanDoes Castor Motor Oil come from the ground or bean?
Its Castrol and it comes from the ground.....its oil.Does Castor Motor Oil come from the ground or bean?
castor oil
shell..ocean
quaker state..from the quakers
pennzoil...ink
generic oil...from China
Its Castrol and it comes from the ground.....its oil.Does Castor Motor Oil come from the ground or bean?
castor oil
shell..ocean
quaker state..from the quakers
pennzoil...ink
generic oil...from China
Can i put 5w-20 motor oil in my 2001 cadillac deville?
Use what the car calls for. I would say in 2001 it calls for 5w-30.Can i put 5w-20 motor oil in my 2001 cadillac deville?
Depends on what climate you are in. If you are in the northern hemisphere where it is currently cold, I'd do it.Can i put 5w-20 motor oil in my 2001 cadillac deville?
Thats pretty thin dude. seems u shuld have that info in ur owners manual or on the oil cap or something. 5-30 ATLEAST. 10-30 sounds about right.
you can but it's better and safer to put in the recommended formula.
Follow the owner's manual.
It's a nearly $4000 wrong guess if you don't...
yea u can
Depends on what climate you are in. If you are in the northern hemisphere where it is currently cold, I'd do it.Can i put 5w-20 motor oil in my 2001 cadillac deville?
Thats pretty thin dude. seems u shuld have that info in ur owners manual or on the oil cap or something. 5-30 ATLEAST. 10-30 sounds about right.
you can but it's better and safer to put in the recommended formula.
Follow the owner's manual.
It's a nearly $4000 wrong guess if you don't...
yea u can
I have water in my oil in my murray lawn mower. Does this mean my motor is shot? It was left out in the rain.?
I've changed the oil ,filter and have just replaced the carb. The model number is 287707. It would'nt crank after the carb was replaced and for a couple of days the oil was clear but today it's milky.I have water in my oil in my murray lawn mower. Does this mean my motor is shot? It was left out in the rain.?
The water undoubtedly got into the crankcase from the rain. However, it will simply sink to the bottom of the sump and won't turn the oil milky until it is mixed with the oil by the crankshaft. Even if you changed oil after it being in the rain, you may not have got all the water out. The no cranking problem probably is a result of the carburetor change, not the water. A bit of water will not ruin your motor.I have water in my oil in my murray lawn mower. Does this mean my motor is shot? It was left out in the rain.?
The milky color oil could be caused from gas seeping past the rings on the pistons. You defiantly shouldn't try to run the motor like that. Perhaps drain the oil one more time and new filter then purchase a cheap tarp to cover at least the motor to eliminate the possibility of moisture getting in through the oil fill tube.
sounds like water got to your oil . it had to be an outside source since this is an air cooled engine drain oil, and replace filter if it has one . keep it in the dry or cover it up in wet weather . p.s. be sure not to overfill oil .
The water undoubtedly got into the crankcase from the rain. However, it will simply sink to the bottom of the sump and won't turn the oil milky until it is mixed with the oil by the crankshaft. Even if you changed oil after it being in the rain, you may not have got all the water out. The no cranking problem probably is a result of the carburetor change, not the water. A bit of water will not ruin your motor.I have water in my oil in my murray lawn mower. Does this mean my motor is shot? It was left out in the rain.?
The milky color oil could be caused from gas seeping past the rings on the pistons. You defiantly shouldn't try to run the motor like that. Perhaps drain the oil one more time and new filter then purchase a cheap tarp to cover at least the motor to eliminate the possibility of moisture getting in through the oil fill tube.
sounds like water got to your oil . it had to be an outside source since this is an air cooled engine drain oil, and replace filter if it has one . keep it in the dry or cover it up in wet weather . p.s. be sure not to overfill oil .
Whats the best brand of motor oil?
I agree with Thomas SR. I would also like to add that using a synthetic oil may not always be best. Think about it this way. If you run an engine, contaminants form from the combustion process. Most of these contaminants are carbon particles.If you run synthetic oil it may be a better lubricant but it still gets contaminated. So they tell you that you can extend the amount of time between oil changes? Hmmmm? I have been servicing vehicles for close to 30 years in the trade. In all that time I have NEVER seen an oil related failure in an engine that had been serviced correctly no matter what type of oil used. In my personal vehicle I use a good quality 5W30 castrol GTX but would use any name brand out there. In my differentials and transfer cases I use synthetics, this is where they really shine. No contaminants so unless water or parts breakage you can leave it there forever. Just a different perspective to think about.Whats the best brand of motor oil?
Tell you what... I've worked in the automotive industry for over 17 years now, and spent ten of them managing an express-lube. I'm an ASE certified Master Technician and a CASI certified Automotive Lubrication Specialist, and what I've learned over the years is this: AS LONG AS YOU STICK WITH THE MAJOR BRANDS OF OIL YOU'RE GETTING A GOOD PRODUCT.Whats the best brand of motor oil?
with today's engine oils and technology any NAME BRAND engine oil is good, synthetic is in another whole league. if your looking for a ';good oil'; stay away from the bargain oils.
castrol gtx
castrol gtx. dont get synthetic unless its a low milage car. It can shink your seals then you'll have an oil leak.
Mobil One fully synthetic. My grandfather used this stuff in his helicopter engine. Nothing else would hold up in the engine. I use it in my personal vehicle. Change every five thousand miles. Not every three thousand. Don't need to change it after three. But check it and make sure it isn't looking bad anyway. If your engine is already old and cruddy don't waste your money on expensive oil though. But if you have a newer car, it's a good idea to use any Fully Synthetic oil. And always change your oil filter every oil change.
First, lets dispell some of the mistakes here.
Synthetics do not ';shrink'; seals and cause leaks. Synthetics are more detergent than regular oils. This causes the synthetic oils to break down the crud that is keeping already damaged seals from leaking.
Mobil 1 was a very good oil at one time. They have now changed their formula. The old formula is now their 'high milage' formula....
The 'best' brand of oil would be full synthetics. Redline, AMSOIL, and Royal Purple are three excellent oils. They are more costly per quart, but extra protection comes with that price.
I use valvoline in both my 98 chevy truck 145,000 miles and 98 jeep with 168,000 miles both receive oil changes every 5000 and both run like new a high quality filter is importen to so valvoline has done me good . you can do a simple test take a old table spoon pour different brands of oil on the spoon 1 at a time take a small hand torch and fry the under side and record how fast they turn to sludge the results are y I use valvoline
idk
Tell you what... I've worked in the automotive industry for over 17 years now, and spent ten of them managing an express-lube. I'm an ASE certified Master Technician and a CASI certified Automotive Lubrication Specialist, and what I've learned over the years is this: AS LONG AS YOU STICK WITH THE MAJOR BRANDS OF OIL YOU'RE GETTING A GOOD PRODUCT.Whats the best brand of motor oil?
with today's engine oils and technology any NAME BRAND engine oil is good, synthetic is in another whole league. if your looking for a ';good oil'; stay away from the bargain oils.
castrol gtx
castrol gtx. dont get synthetic unless its a low milage car. It can shink your seals then you'll have an oil leak.
Mobil One fully synthetic. My grandfather used this stuff in his helicopter engine. Nothing else would hold up in the engine. I use it in my personal vehicle. Change every five thousand miles. Not every three thousand. Don't need to change it after three. But check it and make sure it isn't looking bad anyway. If your engine is already old and cruddy don't waste your money on expensive oil though. But if you have a newer car, it's a good idea to use any Fully Synthetic oil. And always change your oil filter every oil change.
First, lets dispell some of the mistakes here.
Synthetics do not ';shrink'; seals and cause leaks. Synthetics are more detergent than regular oils. This causes the synthetic oils to break down the crud that is keeping already damaged seals from leaking.
Mobil 1 was a very good oil at one time. They have now changed their formula. The old formula is now their 'high milage' formula....
The 'best' brand of oil would be full synthetics. Redline, AMSOIL, and Royal Purple are three excellent oils. They are more costly per quart, but extra protection comes with that price.
I use valvoline in both my 98 chevy truck 145,000 miles and 98 jeep with 168,000 miles both receive oil changes every 5000 and both run like new a high quality filter is importen to so valvoline has done me good . you can do a simple test take a old table spoon pour different brands of oil on the spoon 1 at a time take a small hand torch and fry the under side and record how fast they turn to sludge the results are y I use valvoline
idk
Does using motor oil cure mange in cats?
NO! It won't cure it, it will make the cat sick when it cleans itself.Does using motor oil cure mange in cats?
No, please don't put motor oil on your cat. You will probably just end up making it very sick.
There are multiple kinds of mange that cats can get, and the cat needs to be treated by a vet. In fact, you should have a vet look at the cat anyway, to determine if your cat even has mange. It could be something else.Does using motor oil cure mange in cats?
Mange are skin mites and motor oil is not going to stop the problem.
The vet has a cream that is put on to get rid of the mites. Just go do the standard treatment and stop trying to poison your cat. Motor oil will kill a dog or cat.
NO! It's toxic. Think of the birds being carefully cleaned by volunteers after an oil spill. Think of many of them dying.
no. no it does not.
No, a vet does.
No, please don't put motor oil on your cat. You will probably just end up making it very sick.
There are multiple kinds of mange that cats can get, and the cat needs to be treated by a vet. In fact, you should have a vet look at the cat anyway, to determine if your cat even has mange. It could be something else.Does using motor oil cure mange in cats?
Mange are skin mites and motor oil is not going to stop the problem.
The vet has a cream that is put on to get rid of the mites. Just go do the standard treatment and stop trying to poison your cat. Motor oil will kill a dog or cat.
NO! It's toxic. Think of the birds being carefully cleaned by volunteers after an oil spill. Think of many of them dying.
no. no it does not.
No, a vet does.
I need to know how many quarts of motor oil does a 98 intruder takes and how much antifreeze do i put in it?
It should be moled into the case by the dip stick someplace it tells you. The anit freeze im not sure just make sure its full run it a bit and check it again or call the shop they will tell you on the phoneI need to know how many quarts of motor oil does a 98 intruder takes and how much antifreeze do i put in it?
it should take 5 litres with a new filter, then check dipstick
anti freeze should be
depending how cold it is where u live
moderate climate, anti/h20 = 50/50 mix
-20c to +30c, anti / h2o = up to 70/30myspace bulletins
it should take 5 litres with a new filter, then check dipstick
anti freeze should be
depending how cold it is where u live
moderate climate, anti/h20 = 50/50 mix
-20c to +30c, anti / h2o = up to 70/30
Poured motor oil in transmission tube HELP!!?
I just put a new gasket on the tranny and was putting fluid in and whoops, motor oil way less than 1/4 of a quart,...what should I do?
I guess i will take off the pan and clean it out, but I was wondering if I could flush it with something....thank you so much for your helpPoured motor oil in transmission tube HELP!!?
More than likely your dipstick tube empties directly into the pan. Drop the pan, if the filter got some on it replace it, clean the pan and reinstall. fill with trans fluid and forget it.Poured motor oil in transmission tube HELP!!?
Take off the pan, change the filter if any oil got on it. Oil will swell up any rubber and you will be rebuilding tthe transmission.
If you put less than 1/4 qt.....just fill it the rest of the way w/trans. fluid....You'll be ok.
Drain what you can from the pan and then take the car to a oil change place and have them power flush the fluid in the transmission. Good luck
Not to sure if there any damage by just topping it off with tranny fluid if anything it might make it slip in to gear easier just joking about the slipping part had an old mustang where the heads where so bad that every time I went to the gas station it was fill up the oil and check the gas
I guess i will take off the pan and clean it out, but I was wondering if I could flush it with something....thank you so much for your helpPoured motor oil in transmission tube HELP!!?
More than likely your dipstick tube empties directly into the pan. Drop the pan, if the filter got some on it replace it, clean the pan and reinstall. fill with trans fluid and forget it.Poured motor oil in transmission tube HELP!!?
Take off the pan, change the filter if any oil got on it. Oil will swell up any rubber and you will be rebuilding tthe transmission.
If you put less than 1/4 qt.....just fill it the rest of the way w/trans. fluid....You'll be ok.
Drain what you can from the pan and then take the car to a oil change place and have them power flush the fluid in the transmission. Good luck
Not to sure if there any damage by just topping it off with tranny fluid if anything it might make it slip in to gear easier just joking about the slipping part had an old mustang where the heads where so bad that every time I went to the gas station it was fill up the oil and check the gas
Is motorcycle oil different than regular motor oil, and if so how? Thanks!?
Add DrSmith's answer to KB's answer and you get the full story.
Here is Mobil 1's answer to your question:
';Motorcycle oils and passenger car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil. The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.';Is motorcycle oil different than regular motor oil, and if so how? Thanks!?
In general, no, the oil is no different, but it is completely dependent on what type of engine you have and what the oil is being used for. If it's engine oil only, then no difference, but if it has other functions/uses then it would be very different. Check an owner's manual for the correct information or call a motorcycle shop/store and tell them the make and model of your motorcycle and they can tell you more specifically what oil you need to be using.Is motorcycle oil different than regular motor oil, and if so how? Thanks!?
Basically, no.
If you want the best lubricity, better than synthetics, Shell Rotella-T
Meny motorcycle engines share oil supply with the transmission The load pressure from the gears can cause oil to break down( lose viscosity) fast like within 1000 miles
Yes regular oil has friction modifiers in it that can cause oil bath clutches (like most motorcycles have) to slip. Motorcycle oil does not have this.
Yes most regular oil has friction modifiers in it that can cause clutch damage. you can check on the back of the oil bottle in the service star. it will say energy conserving if it has friction modifiers in it. if it doesn't it is ok to use. most light car oil like 5w-30 10w-30 etc is energy conserving. most heavier wight oils aren't energy conserving 10w-40, 15w-40 etc.
I never put motorcycle oil in my bikes. Any good brand name automobileoil without moly is as good, if not better, than motorcycle oil. Moly causes wet cluthes to sometimes slip, so skip it.
The difference in regular motor oil and motorcycle oil is motorcycle oil is a heavier weight oil. Also, certain motorcycles require a different type of oil for different parts of the engine and drive chain. A harley for example can have upto 3 different types of oil used. If done regularly, putting conventional motor oil in a motorcycle engine could cause damage.
Motorcycle oil is formulated to withstand the higher revs that a motorcycle is subjected to and to also deal with the wet clutches. Bikes have twice the redline that most cars have, creating a much more stressed environment for the oil. It will maintain viscosity longer and will not break down under the shear forces in a motorcycle engine.
Well except for special applications like in your first answer, I'd say not so much. Barring you're running your bike in the Daytona 500 in over 100 degree heat. There are only so many refineries and a lot of different brands come from each refinery. But everybody has their own opinion on what oil to use. Straight or multi-viscosity, synthetic the one thing I think all will agree on is regular oil changes. I usually use Castro 20-50 in my motor with Lucas oil making up a percentage for what I figure is a little extra protection. If you change your oil often even the cheaper oils won't have time to break down. On the bike I change my oil and before I button things up I pull the plug and let her run while I pour an extra quart or two into the oil bag just to try and flush out as much of the old oil as I can. Want a above average oil try Torco. Expensive and hard to find but Torco, Castro or any other change it often, I don't like to let it go to 2500 miles, and it won't be oil breakdown you lose your motor over. Just my opinion. And here I'm assuming your talking mainly motor application. Like the first answer said different applications different weights and additives. Again main thing for any of it is the prescribed intervals of oil change if not more often.
KB is right on.
Here is Mobil 1's answer to your question:
';Motorcycle oils and passenger car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil. The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.';Is motorcycle oil different than regular motor oil, and if so how? Thanks!?
In general, no, the oil is no different, but it is completely dependent on what type of engine you have and what the oil is being used for. If it's engine oil only, then no difference, but if it has other functions/uses then it would be very different. Check an owner's manual for the correct information or call a motorcycle shop/store and tell them the make and model of your motorcycle and they can tell you more specifically what oil you need to be using.Is motorcycle oil different than regular motor oil, and if so how? Thanks!?
Basically, no.
If you want the best lubricity, better than synthetics, Shell Rotella-T
Meny motorcycle engines share oil supply with the transmission The load pressure from the gears can cause oil to break down( lose viscosity) fast like within 1000 miles
Yes regular oil has friction modifiers in it that can cause oil bath clutches (like most motorcycles have) to slip. Motorcycle oil does not have this.
Yes most regular oil has friction modifiers in it that can cause clutch damage. you can check on the back of the oil bottle in the service star. it will say energy conserving if it has friction modifiers in it. if it doesn't it is ok to use. most light car oil like 5w-30 10w-30 etc is energy conserving. most heavier wight oils aren't energy conserving 10w-40, 15w-40 etc.
I never put motorcycle oil in my bikes. Any good brand name automobileoil without moly is as good, if not better, than motorcycle oil. Moly causes wet cluthes to sometimes slip, so skip it.
The difference in regular motor oil and motorcycle oil is motorcycle oil is a heavier weight oil. Also, certain motorcycles require a different type of oil for different parts of the engine and drive chain. A harley for example can have upto 3 different types of oil used. If done regularly, putting conventional motor oil in a motorcycle engine could cause damage.
Motorcycle oil is formulated to withstand the higher revs that a motorcycle is subjected to and to also deal with the wet clutches. Bikes have twice the redline that most cars have, creating a much more stressed environment for the oil. It will maintain viscosity longer and will not break down under the shear forces in a motorcycle engine.
Well except for special applications like in your first answer, I'd say not so much. Barring you're running your bike in the Daytona 500 in over 100 degree heat. There are only so many refineries and a lot of different brands come from each refinery. But everybody has their own opinion on what oil to use. Straight or multi-viscosity, synthetic the one thing I think all will agree on is regular oil changes. I usually use Castro 20-50 in my motor with Lucas oil making up a percentage for what I figure is a little extra protection. If you change your oil often even the cheaper oils won't have time to break down. On the bike I change my oil and before I button things up I pull the plug and let her run while I pour an extra quart or two into the oil bag just to try and flush out as much of the old oil as I can. Want a above average oil try Torco. Expensive and hard to find but Torco, Castro or any other change it often, I don't like to let it go to 2500 miles, and it won't be oil breakdown you lose your motor over. Just my opinion. And here I'm assuming your talking mainly motor application. Like the first answer said different applications different weights and additives. Again main thing for any of it is the prescribed intervals of oil change if not more often.
KB is right on.
On a pace motor home with a olds 455 engine need motor oil capacity?
Standard 455 C.I.D. Olds 5 U.S. Quarts with a filter 4 with out,
But a motorhome has a larger oil pan depending on the year 6,7,up to 8 qts, you will not go wrong by changing the oil%26amp; filter put 5 U.S. qts in, start vehicle let oil presure light and or guage light off or guage come up, shut motor off pull dip stick wipe off stab check, if zero is on the stick add one qt. do this again till its full one qt at a time as i said, from the full mark to the end is 2 U.S. Qts
so after you add one and its half way, you know you need one more , and always turn stick over and always use the lower of the two its the accurate one, on all vehicles,
step by step you will be absolutly fine, then when its full, you will know for the next service, what it holds, always know the oil filter on your 455 hold's 1 U.S. QuartOn a pace motor home with a olds 455 engine need motor oil capacity?
A normal olds 455 takes 5 quarts
But a motorhome has a larger oil pan depending on the year 6,7,up to 8 qts, you will not go wrong by changing the oil%26amp; filter put 5 U.S. qts in, start vehicle let oil presure light and or guage light off or guage come up, shut motor off pull dip stick wipe off stab check, if zero is on the stick add one qt. do this again till its full one qt at a time as i said, from the full mark to the end is 2 U.S. Qts
so after you add one and its half way, you know you need one more , and always turn stick over and always use the lower of the two its the accurate one, on all vehicles,
step by step you will be absolutly fine, then when its full, you will know for the next service, what it holds, always know the oil filter on your 455 hold's 1 U.S. QuartOn a pace motor home with a olds 455 engine need motor oil capacity?
A normal olds 455 takes 5 quarts
Is motor oil soluble in kerosene?
Yes. They are both nonpolar.
Remember ';like dissolves like'; for solubility problems. Polar solvents dissolve polar solutes, and nonpolar solvents dissolve nonpolar solutes.Is motor oil soluble in kerosene?
Yes it is
Remember ';like dissolves like'; for solubility problems. Polar solvents dissolve polar solutes, and nonpolar solvents dissolve nonpolar solutes.Is motor oil soluble in kerosene?
Yes it is
My gmc 99 suburban oil gauge when i start the truck is pinned at 80 and the motor is clacking loudly for 5min?
then gauge goes back to 40 and all seems fine what is this ?My gmc 99 suburban oil gauge when i start the truck is pinned at 80 and the motor is clacking loudly for 5min?
I would change the engine oil and filter and put 1 can of lucas oil treatment in and fill with engine oil
I would change the engine oil and filter and put 1 can of lucas oil treatment in and fill with engine oil
Does motor oil help dogs?
i have a pit/husky mix and he has a MAJOR hot spot on his back. it's to the point where he's pretty much bald. he even chews on his tail to the point it sometimes bleeds. i've had a lot of people tell me that putting burnt motor oil on his back where he chews will help his hair come back and it may help his skin. but does it really help?Does motor oil help dogs?
That will burn his skin and is highly toxic. Don't listen to stupid people.
If you hang out on Y Answers daily you will see litterally hundreds of people talking about their dogs chewing on their feet and legs and everyone saying its bla bla bla allergies etc, my dog does it too and on and on and on.. What these people do not realize is that these behaviors are caused by something. Stating its an allergy is all well and good but WHY?
Here's why... Vaccines cause skin problems and allergies. Cheap grain filled foods that dogs are NOT meant to eat cause allergies. Heartowrm prevention and flea and tick topicals cause allergies. People always want to fix the symptom and refuse for some reason to look at the cause and go from there.
The first thing you need to do is change this dogs diet. RAW feeding would probably be the answer to your prayer here. It has litterally saved thousands of dogs from self destruction. You also need to get this dog off of any so called 'preventative' medicines for fleas, ticks, heartworms until you get this problem under control.
For the life of me I do not understand why people will not wake up and smell the coffee here and realize that these things are FAR from NORMAL in dogs and should NOT be excused as.. oh its just an allergy.
If you really want to help your dog then I suggest you start at the core of the problem and feed him the best money can buy with no grains and preservative. This would be a raw diet.
http://www.rawlearning.com
http://www.rawfed.com/myths
http://www.rawfed.net
This dog and thousands of others need relief.. not a bandaid on the symptom.
Seek the help of a Holistic vet.. Many do phone consultation. You can search for a vet here by state. Look for one that practices many modalities.
http://www.holisticvetlist.com
Feel free to e-mail me if you want to know more. I have a whole arsenal of info about vaccines and the damage they cause, commercial foods and the damage they cause and much more!
Good luck. I hope you can get your dog the relief he deserves.
The suggestions are well and good if you just want to put a bandaid on it, but if you want him cured it will take a lot more then a drug to control itching and as drugs go... more side effects. This dogs immune system needs healed, not masked with more drugs.Does motor oil help dogs?
Don't use burnt motor oil !! Its harmful, you might be interested in some of the remedies below for hot spots.....
WITCH HAZEL AND GOLD BOND POWDER, BURROWS SOLUTION %26amp; TEA TREE OIL, APPLE CIDER VINEGAR, there are many more at the link below. Try using natural/herbal solutions before you resort to burnt motor oil!!
NO,don't put it on,it can do more harm than good,especially if your dog licks it.Why not just take him to the vet? He could probably use a shot of cortisone and some medicated shampoo.If not,then just put Neosporin on the sore spots,and give the dog Benadryl,1 mg.per lb. of body weight.You also need to make sure to treat him for fleas.use Advantage or Frontline.
DO NOT put motor oil on any animal, it's poison to them. Be a responsible pet owner, get off the cash, and take the poor animal to a vet!!!
Motor oil is a poison to humans and animals. You need to talk to your vet about possible remedies that won't kill your pet, or send them into organ failure. Sometimes chewing of the skin is a behavior issue, is he possibly bored or agitated?
No, don't ever use motor oil. There is a good chance that he'll injest it and die. My lab get's hot spots every year and my vet said that it's ususally and in her case is caused by an allergy to fleas. Every time one bites her it causes her to itch really bad and chew until she bleeds. If it's bad you need to take her to the vet and he'll give her a shot of antihistamine to make the itching go away and give you a antibiotic to give to her for ten days if the skin is broken. He'll also tell you to give her some flea preventitive in a few days. Good luck.
It helps them die.
NO!!! not only is motor oil dangerous if ingested it also contains carcinegens(ingredients that cause CANCER) if you think that the chewing is a problem then wait until your dog gets a tumor and ends up dying... please do something different for your dog .... if you dont have enough money to take your dog to a vet there are animals services such as paws that is like low income like a free clinic for humans ... take him there if you cant find any over the counter meds
No take him to the vet.
For the love of G*d and all that is holy...
DO NOT PUT MOTOR OIL ON YOUR DOG.
I don't know what kind of old school boneheads told you to do this, but please, don't.
He needs some meds, a cone to keep him from reaching the spots so they'll have a chance to heal, and an owner who would never put motor oil on him.
could be mange and there's medicine for that, too many pets die of cancer so don't agree to it
Do not use motor oil. Instead, seek a diagnosis and proper treatment from your vet.
It sounds dangerous to me,try putting it on your skin first,seriously CALL your vet.
No, it doesn't help. Don't put it on. The dog will then chew on it, and injest the motor oil which could result it death. Take the dog to a vet. They make medicine and sprays for hot spots. Also try an oatmeal bath.
NO! This will not help. He may be allerigic to something. He needs to see a vet. The only thing that MIGHT help is to go to the drug store and get a can of Dermoplast. Wash the affected area with warm water and mild soap, like puppy soap or some shampoo, dry it really well and then spray it with the Dermoplast. At very first contact it will sting like CRAZY and he might freak out a little bit but after a second or two it will stop stinging. This will dull the burning and itching and he'll chew on it less until you can get him into a vet.
NO!!! Take him to the vet. Doesn't it bother you to see him so miserable and you don't get him medical care?? If you can't afford the vet, you can't afford a dog. Or don't you want to spend your $$ on your dog?
Call your vet IMMEDIATLY. No, motor oil will just help him die quicker. If he chews it to the point it bleeds, that should be a warning sign to an owner. He's obviously uncomfortable with whatever's wrong with his tail and it could be serious. Take him to the vet ASAP so it doesn't get worse.
I hope he's okay... :]myspace bulletins
That will burn his skin and is highly toxic. Don't listen to stupid people.
If you hang out on Y Answers daily you will see litterally hundreds of people talking about their dogs chewing on their feet and legs and everyone saying its bla bla bla allergies etc, my dog does it too and on and on and on.. What these people do not realize is that these behaviors are caused by something. Stating its an allergy is all well and good but WHY?
Here's why... Vaccines cause skin problems and allergies. Cheap grain filled foods that dogs are NOT meant to eat cause allergies. Heartowrm prevention and flea and tick topicals cause allergies. People always want to fix the symptom and refuse for some reason to look at the cause and go from there.
The first thing you need to do is change this dogs diet. RAW feeding would probably be the answer to your prayer here. It has litterally saved thousands of dogs from self destruction. You also need to get this dog off of any so called 'preventative' medicines for fleas, ticks, heartworms until you get this problem under control.
For the life of me I do not understand why people will not wake up and smell the coffee here and realize that these things are FAR from NORMAL in dogs and should NOT be excused as.. oh its just an allergy.
If you really want to help your dog then I suggest you start at the core of the problem and feed him the best money can buy with no grains and preservative. This would be a raw diet.
http://www.rawlearning.com
http://www.rawfed.com/myths
http://www.rawfed.net
This dog and thousands of others need relief.. not a bandaid on the symptom.
Seek the help of a Holistic vet.. Many do phone consultation. You can search for a vet here by state. Look for one that practices many modalities.
http://www.holisticvetlist.com
Feel free to e-mail me if you want to know more. I have a whole arsenal of info about vaccines and the damage they cause, commercial foods and the damage they cause and much more!
Good luck. I hope you can get your dog the relief he deserves.
The suggestions are well and good if you just want to put a bandaid on it, but if you want him cured it will take a lot more then a drug to control itching and as drugs go... more side effects. This dogs immune system needs healed, not masked with more drugs.Does motor oil help dogs?
Don't use burnt motor oil !! Its harmful, you might be interested in some of the remedies below for hot spots.....
WITCH HAZEL AND GOLD BOND POWDER, BURROWS SOLUTION %26amp; TEA TREE OIL, APPLE CIDER VINEGAR, there are many more at the link below. Try using natural/herbal solutions before you resort to burnt motor oil!!
NO,don't put it on,it can do more harm than good,especially if your dog licks it.Why not just take him to the vet? He could probably use a shot of cortisone and some medicated shampoo.If not,then just put Neosporin on the sore spots,and give the dog Benadryl,1 mg.per lb. of body weight.You also need to make sure to treat him for fleas.use Advantage or Frontline.
DO NOT put motor oil on any animal, it's poison to them. Be a responsible pet owner, get off the cash, and take the poor animal to a vet!!!
Motor oil is a poison to humans and animals. You need to talk to your vet about possible remedies that won't kill your pet, or send them into organ failure. Sometimes chewing of the skin is a behavior issue, is he possibly bored or agitated?
No, don't ever use motor oil. There is a good chance that he'll injest it and die. My lab get's hot spots every year and my vet said that it's ususally and in her case is caused by an allergy to fleas. Every time one bites her it causes her to itch really bad and chew until she bleeds. If it's bad you need to take her to the vet and he'll give her a shot of antihistamine to make the itching go away and give you a antibiotic to give to her for ten days if the skin is broken. He'll also tell you to give her some flea preventitive in a few days. Good luck.
It helps them die.
NO!!! not only is motor oil dangerous if ingested it also contains carcinegens(ingredients that cause CANCER) if you think that the chewing is a problem then wait until your dog gets a tumor and ends up dying... please do something different for your dog .... if you dont have enough money to take your dog to a vet there are animals services such as paws that is like low income like a free clinic for humans ... take him there if you cant find any over the counter meds
No take him to the vet.
For the love of G*d and all that is holy...
DO NOT PUT MOTOR OIL ON YOUR DOG.
I don't know what kind of old school boneheads told you to do this, but please, don't.
He needs some meds, a cone to keep him from reaching the spots so they'll have a chance to heal, and an owner who would never put motor oil on him.
could be mange and there's medicine for that, too many pets die of cancer so don't agree to it
Do not use motor oil. Instead, seek a diagnosis and proper treatment from your vet.
It sounds dangerous to me,try putting it on your skin first,seriously CALL your vet.
No, it doesn't help. Don't put it on. The dog will then chew on it, and injest the motor oil which could result it death. Take the dog to a vet. They make medicine and sprays for hot spots. Also try an oatmeal bath.
NO! This will not help. He may be allerigic to something. He needs to see a vet. The only thing that MIGHT help is to go to the drug store and get a can of Dermoplast. Wash the affected area with warm water and mild soap, like puppy soap or some shampoo, dry it really well and then spray it with the Dermoplast. At very first contact it will sting like CRAZY and he might freak out a little bit but after a second or two it will stop stinging. This will dull the burning and itching and he'll chew on it less until you can get him into a vet.
NO!!! Take him to the vet. Doesn't it bother you to see him so miserable and you don't get him medical care?? If you can't afford the vet, you can't afford a dog. Or don't you want to spend your $$ on your dog?
Call your vet IMMEDIATLY. No, motor oil will just help him die quicker. If he chews it to the point it bleeds, that should be a warning sign to an owner. He's obviously uncomfortable with whatever's wrong with his tail and it could be serious. Take him to the vet ASAP so it doesn't get worse.
I hope he's okay... :]
Compressor/motor oil?
What is the average amount of oil that is put into a fridge motor when it [motor] is manufactured.?
Is it possible to tell the H.P of a motor by its LRA.?Compressor/motor oil?
The motor dose not have any oil other than the life time pack put in @ manufacture. The motor is what drives the compressor which circulates the coolant. The HP is typically stamped on the end plate of the motor.Compressor/motor oil?
Forget it ! There are lots of stuff you can fix on a refrigerator yourself, but dont mess with the sealed system.
Is it possible to tell the H.P of a motor by its LRA.?Compressor/motor oil?
The motor dose not have any oil other than the life time pack put in @ manufacture. The motor is what drives the compressor which circulates the coolant. The HP is typically stamped on the end plate of the motor.Compressor/motor oil?
Forget it ! There are lots of stuff you can fix on a refrigerator yourself, but dont mess with the sealed system.
5w20 motor oil specified for 08 accord?
in warm/hot year around climate(san antonio) i want to use redline10w30 synthetic at first change, or possibly 5w30, can this actually damage engine, the folks at amsoil state emphatically that a 30 weight oil would actually offer more protection, beating it to death, so much conflicting information5w20 motor oil specified for 08 accord?
Here we go again. Some oil company or representative thinks they're smarter than the people who built and designed your car.
Why don't you keep your new car warranty fully intact and use Mobil1 full synthetic 5W-20? If something mechanical should happen to your motor your local Honda dealer are the people who's going to open it up. Do you realize you will be required to show receipts for any oil changes done outside the dealer? What do you think Honda will say if you stand there with a broken motor with receipts for the incorrect viscosity oil?
If you don't think 5W-20 will hack the mission go to Joe Gibbs Racing Oil to learn what the Gibbs team uses in their crankcases to qualify, run on restrictor plate tracks and when restrictor plates are not used.
You don't need to worry about a small street automobile beating the oil to death. Compare 850 horsepower @9,500 rpm for five hundred miles using lighter viscosity oil than what you had previously thought was adequate.
Please understand racing oil should not be used on the street as it contains enough zinc and phosphorus to ruin a catalytic converter in no time.
I'll save you the time. XPO = 0 weight synthetic oil for qualifying restrictor plate engines.
XP-1 = 5W-20 synthetic for unrestricted motors during races.
XP-2 = 0W-20 synthetic used in restrictor plate races.
The above only demonstrates it's not necessary to pour some thick molasses in your crankcase to adequately protect moving parts. Light oil cools moving parts faster and more efficiently. It creates less drag on the oil pump costing you horsepower. Light oil pumps to critical engine parts faster on cold start-ups.
By the way nobody that races in Nextel cup on Sunday, Nationwide on Saturday or Craftsman trucks uses Amzoil Royal Purple or Redline Oil.5w20 motor oil specified for 08 accord?
the manufacturer recommends the oil grade but it is not the only grade you can use.
I'd use what Honda suggests, read your owners manual.
Here we go again. Some oil company or representative thinks they're smarter than the people who built and designed your car.
Why don't you keep your new car warranty fully intact and use Mobil1 full synthetic 5W-20? If something mechanical should happen to your motor your local Honda dealer are the people who's going to open it up. Do you realize you will be required to show receipts for any oil changes done outside the dealer? What do you think Honda will say if you stand there with a broken motor with receipts for the incorrect viscosity oil?
If you don't think 5W-20 will hack the mission go to Joe Gibbs Racing Oil to learn what the Gibbs team uses in their crankcases to qualify, run on restrictor plate tracks and when restrictor plates are not used.
You don't need to worry about a small street automobile beating the oil to death. Compare 850 horsepower @9,500 rpm for five hundred miles using lighter viscosity oil than what you had previously thought was adequate.
Please understand racing oil should not be used on the street as it contains enough zinc and phosphorus to ruin a catalytic converter in no time.
I'll save you the time. XPO = 0 weight synthetic oil for qualifying restrictor plate engines.
XP-1 = 5W-20 synthetic for unrestricted motors during races.
XP-2 = 0W-20 synthetic used in restrictor plate races.
The above only demonstrates it's not necessary to pour some thick molasses in your crankcase to adequately protect moving parts. Light oil cools moving parts faster and more efficiently. It creates less drag on the oil pump costing you horsepower. Light oil pumps to critical engine parts faster on cold start-ups.
By the way nobody that races in Nextel cup on Sunday, Nationwide on Saturday or Craftsman trucks uses Amzoil Royal Purple or Redline Oil.5w20 motor oil specified for 08 accord?
the manufacturer recommends the oil grade but it is not the only grade you can use.
I'd use what Honda suggests, read your owners manual.
I have a 79 mercury outboard motor,two stroke whats the oil to gas mixture?
I dont have owners manual and it doesn't say on motorI have a 79 mercury outboard motor,two stroke whats the oil to gas mixture?
50:1 is the correct ratio. Add 1 pint of a tcw-3 oil for 6 gallons of gas. Don't over oil, this can damage your motor. If you need further info, let me know.I have a 79 mercury outboard motor,two stroke whats the oil to gas mixture?
Probably 32 to 1. Maybe as little as 50 to 1. Call a shop that fixes them now before you really need to call them-- for an expensive repair. They will tell you. If they don't/won't, go somewhere else when you need service.
i do 25 - 1
1 pint to 6 gallons of gas
i am a boat dealer if ur wondering
look underneath the cowling but i would say 50 to 1 is good but i would also say adding extra never hurts, i would rather foul a plug than loose a cylinder
50:1 is the correct ratio. Add 1 pint of a tcw-3 oil for 6 gallons of gas. Don't over oil, this can damage your motor. If you need further info, let me know.I have a 79 mercury outboard motor,two stroke whats the oil to gas mixture?
Probably 32 to 1. Maybe as little as 50 to 1. Call a shop that fixes them now before you really need to call them-- for an expensive repair. They will tell you. If they don't/won't, go somewhere else when you need service.
i do 25 - 1
1 pint to 6 gallons of gas
i am a boat dealer if ur wondering
look underneath the cowling but i would say 50 to 1 is good but i would also say adding extra never hurts, i would rather foul a plug than loose a cylinder
How many quarts of motor oil does the 2007 5.7 litre toyota tundra take?
probably 5-6qts, to be sure check the owners manual or local dealer.How many quarts of motor oil does the 2007 5.7 litre toyota tundra take?
The 5.7 liter Toyota Tundra holds seven (7) quarts of 5W20 motor oil. Report Abuse
The 5.7 liter Toyota Tundra holds seven (7) quarts of 5W20 motor oil. Report Abuse
Does any one know what kind of motor oil i have to put in my 1980 Oldsmobile delta88 its a v8 5.7?
Got a 80 in a caprice. Go with a 10w-30 high mileage oil... these high mileage oils contain extra seal ';conditioners'; and have a beefier additive pack, and are also on the thick side of they're viscosity..... Take regular conventional pennzoil.... maybe 10.5 cst, thats a thin 30 weight at operating temp... the high mileage version is around 12... almost a 40 weight. I personally prefer pennzoil high mileage in my old 80.... be sure to use a good wix oil filter. NO cheaply made fram.Does any one know what kind of motor oil i have to put in my 1980 Oldsmobile delta88 its a v8 5.7?
It would probally be best to use 10W-30 motor oil.Does any one know what kind of motor oil i have to put in my 1980 Oldsmobile delta88 its a v8 5.7?
name brand 10W40 unless you live in very cold climate then use 5W30-I prefer Pennzoil
10w40 in summer and 10w30 in winter
Depending on your location, you will need a multi-viscosity grade oil. Colder climates something like 10w30, hot climates you can go up to 20w50. With the age of the car it is probably safe to assume you have high miles. Many name brand companies produce HIGH MILEAGE oils for cars with high miles. They have extra added detergents and lubricants to help maintain your engines ability to continue on for many more miles. I personally like Castrol GTX. Good luck.
Well if you live here in Texas where I live, I would use 10 w-30, name brand IE Quaker Stata, Penziol, or Mobile 1
It would probally be best to use 10W-30 motor oil.Does any one know what kind of motor oil i have to put in my 1980 Oldsmobile delta88 its a v8 5.7?
name brand 10W40 unless you live in very cold climate then use 5W30-I prefer Pennzoil
10w40 in summer and 10w30 in winter
Depending on your location, you will need a multi-viscosity grade oil. Colder climates something like 10w30, hot climates you can go up to 20w50. With the age of the car it is probably safe to assume you have high miles. Many name brand companies produce HIGH MILEAGE oils for cars with high miles. They have extra added detergents and lubricants to help maintain your engines ability to continue on for many more miles. I personally like Castrol GTX. Good luck.
Well if you live here in Texas where I live, I would use 10 w-30, name brand IE Quaker Stata, Penziol, or Mobile 1
Now dose the Q motor oil work?
Now Dose lol.. I really dont know what Q motor oil is... Whats is used for ?myspace bulletins
Whats the diffrents between 5w and 10w motor oil?
on engineWhats the diffrents between 5w and 10w motor oil?
10w is a little thicker than the 5w.Whats the diffrents between 5w and 10w motor oil?
W stands for viscosity in winter conditions.
also the higher the W number the more resistant it is to shearing (parts squish the oil away causing metal on metal and loosing viscosity)
go by the car make for viscosity rating, i like 10W30 synthetic for hard driving and long trips, and 5w30 for cold whether and short trips.
SAE 30 (30w30) is the best for shearing but should never be used when cold out.
5 w lol....standard for a long time [and even now] is 10 w 30...the 1st # tells how it flows ... for summer 80 ,,,90 degree i use 20 w...very thick...new cars use 5 w even 0w for less friction to gain a fraction of a % for fleet mileage.......the 2nd number is how tough it is...there i use 40 even 50 ...but most use 30 because its cheaper....
the first number is how heavy the oil is when it,s cold and the last number is the weight of the oil when it,s warmed up.
the viscosity rating in cold temp,oil with more than a 20 differential between rates is a synthetic blend. 10W30 not syn. unless specified , 5W30 syn. blend
the difference is the viscosity
10w would be thicker than 5w
Viscosity when cold.
10 is thicker than 5
10w is a little thicker than the 5w.Whats the diffrents between 5w and 10w motor oil?
W stands for viscosity in winter conditions.
also the higher the W number the more resistant it is to shearing (parts squish the oil away causing metal on metal and loosing viscosity)
go by the car make for viscosity rating, i like 10W30 synthetic for hard driving and long trips, and 5w30 for cold whether and short trips.
SAE 30 (30w30) is the best for shearing but should never be used when cold out.
5 w lol....standard for a long time [and even now] is 10 w 30...the 1st # tells how it flows ... for summer 80 ,,,90 degree i use 20 w...very thick...new cars use 5 w even 0w for less friction to gain a fraction of a % for fleet mileage.......the 2nd number is how tough it is...there i use 40 even 50 ...but most use 30 because its cheaper....
the first number is how heavy the oil is when it,s cold and the last number is the weight of the oil when it,s warmed up.
the viscosity rating in cold temp,oil with more than a 20 differential between rates is a synthetic blend. 10W30 not syn. unless specified , 5W30 syn. blend
the difference is the viscosity
10w would be thicker than 5w
Viscosity when cold.
10 is thicker than 5
My 2001 dodge durango 4.7 liter wont start. The oil came out of the motor to by where the air filter is ?
and it looks weird. looks like sludge.. i checked the oil and it had no oil in the motor, i put 5 quarts of oil and the truck still wont start and the the oil now smells like gasMy 2001 dodge durango 4.7 liter wont start. The oil came out of the motor to by where the air filter is ?
I believe you've blown your motor up. Not sure how you did this, but I suspect you burned a piston, blew the oil out of the engine and ended up with some being blown back through the intake tract. If you ran the engine 2 quarts low, you'd pretty much toast the engine as you'd destroy the cam(s). Since you had no oil in the engine, it's destroyed and so full of metal debris that I'd not advise attempting a rebuild.
This could not have happened without all kinds of warning lights coming on. You should have seen an Engine Temp warning and then a low Oil Pressure warning as the engine was dieing!
At this point, I'm afraid the vehicle is worthless. Your best option will be to find someone who can put a good used engine into the vehicle. Expect this will cost $3000 - $5000.
AstrobufMy 2001 dodge durango 4.7 liter wont start. The oil came out of the motor to by where the air filter is ?
Start by draining the oil from the engine.
You are hoping to get about 5 qts. of oil out.
If you get much more than 5 qts. you have serious issues at hand.
Start by draining the oil that is contaminated with the gas first.
oh~~ good luck
http://www.toboc.com/forum3/DEFAULT.ASPX鈥?/a>
I believe you've blown your motor up. Not sure how you did this, but I suspect you burned a piston, blew the oil out of the engine and ended up with some being blown back through the intake tract. If you ran the engine 2 quarts low, you'd pretty much toast the engine as you'd destroy the cam(s). Since you had no oil in the engine, it's destroyed and so full of metal debris that I'd not advise attempting a rebuild.
This could not have happened without all kinds of warning lights coming on. You should have seen an Engine Temp warning and then a low Oil Pressure warning as the engine was dieing!
At this point, I'm afraid the vehicle is worthless. Your best option will be to find someone who can put a good used engine into the vehicle. Expect this will cost $3000 - $5000.
AstrobufMy 2001 dodge durango 4.7 liter wont start. The oil came out of the motor to by where the air filter is ?
Start by draining the oil from the engine.
You are hoping to get about 5 qts. of oil out.
If you get much more than 5 qts. you have serious issues at hand.
Start by draining the oil that is contaminated with the gas first.
oh~~ good luck
http://www.toboc.com/forum3/DEFAULT.ASPX鈥?/a>
Can use motor oil and grease make hair grow faster?
I had to read your previous questions to make sure you're not joking or being racist, and even then I'm still not sure.
I'm going to be blunt: Why in the heII do you want to put motor oil in your hair??? Grease doesn't make your hair grow, and unless you have relaxed hair then you don't need grease at all. Motor oil? Are you freakin' serious?? That's not the type of ';oil'; you want to put in your hair - it's the kind you put in a car. If you want to put oil in your hair then use a natural oil like olive oil, coconut, jojoba, grapeseed, or many of the other natural oils. Something that belongs in your car does not belong in your hair.Can use motor oil and grease make hair grow faster?
to be honest even if you did it would smell horrible be a huge mess and it would be very difficult to remove if you are trying to grow your hair go to a vitamin store and ask for biotien it makes ur hair nails and skin grow LIKE CRAZY try to put as little heat on it as you can when theres no moisture your hair will be like a desert... i bleach my hair plus im obsessed with the flat iron and it doesnt grow very fast ! everynight i put this olive hair oil you can get it @ anybeauty supply or even walmart BUT NOT MOTOR OIL!! lol in my hair and cover it up with a wrap when i wake up i just wash it out... also dont skip out on cheap shampoo spend the extra money on solan brand they are expensive for a reason GOOD LUCKCan use motor oil and grease make hair grow faster?
regular trims are a must, about every 7-9 weeks. if its been awhile since you have had a trim then inches may be called for to get to healthy hair. i use vitamin e on fresh washed hair. dont message into scalp. if you get too much then just rewash it. hair will feel slightly sticky until dry then it will be nice and soft. it tames the frizzies, deep conditions and makes hair grow about three in a month. it takes about a month for the e to kick in. dont brush your hair but maybe once a week to message the scalp, i use a wide tooth comb at other times. brushing breaks off hair. i just started biotin vitamins eight weeks ago this sat and notice and big growth spurt from that. biotin is cheap. i also have the biotin shampoo that i got from a vitamin store online. five bucks for a big bottle. good luck
waaaaat, noo dont do that!! theres nothing that makes ur hair grow quicker trust me, have a good diet and take multivitamins itd help ur hair be healthier and yourself too!!
good mousturiser for u hair as well as heat protection!!
Vitamins and exercises are the only thing that effects hair growth.
No, nothing on the general market is prov en to increase the pace of hair growth.
I'm going to be blunt: Why in the heII do you want to put motor oil in your hair??? Grease doesn't make your hair grow, and unless you have relaxed hair then you don't need grease at all. Motor oil? Are you freakin' serious?? That's not the type of ';oil'; you want to put in your hair - it's the kind you put in a car. If you want to put oil in your hair then use a natural oil like olive oil, coconut, jojoba, grapeseed, or many of the other natural oils. Something that belongs in your car does not belong in your hair.Can use motor oil and grease make hair grow faster?
to be honest even if you did it would smell horrible be a huge mess and it would be very difficult to remove if you are trying to grow your hair go to a vitamin store and ask for biotien it makes ur hair nails and skin grow LIKE CRAZY try to put as little heat on it as you can when theres no moisture your hair will be like a desert... i bleach my hair plus im obsessed with the flat iron and it doesnt grow very fast ! everynight i put this olive hair oil you can get it @ anybeauty supply or even walmart BUT NOT MOTOR OIL!! lol in my hair and cover it up with a wrap when i wake up i just wash it out... also dont skip out on cheap shampoo spend the extra money on solan brand they are expensive for a reason GOOD LUCKCan use motor oil and grease make hair grow faster?
regular trims are a must, about every 7-9 weeks. if its been awhile since you have had a trim then inches may be called for to get to healthy hair. i use vitamin e on fresh washed hair. dont message into scalp. if you get too much then just rewash it. hair will feel slightly sticky until dry then it will be nice and soft. it tames the frizzies, deep conditions and makes hair grow about three in a month. it takes about a month for the e to kick in. dont brush your hair but maybe once a week to message the scalp, i use a wide tooth comb at other times. brushing breaks off hair. i just started biotin vitamins eight weeks ago this sat and notice and big growth spurt from that. biotin is cheap. i also have the biotin shampoo that i got from a vitamin store online. five bucks for a big bottle. good luck
waaaaat, noo dont do that!! theres nothing that makes ur hair grow quicker trust me, have a good diet and take multivitamins itd help ur hair be healthier and yourself too!!
good mousturiser for u hair as well as heat protection!!
Vitamins and exercises are the only thing that effects hair growth.
No, nothing on the general market is prov en to increase the pace of hair growth.
In your everyday car have you ever switched from Conventional motor oil 2 synthetic & noticed a big difference
Like have you noticed the engine ran smoother after changing to synthetic. I don't care about brand name.....just switching from conventional mineral oil to synthetic?In your everyday car have you ever switched from Conventional motor oil 2 synthetic %26amp; noticed a big difference
No I can't say that I have but, I read an article a few years back in Car Craft. They took a car and put all syn fluids in. Motor, trans, rear end. Then they ran it on the dyno. They did a baseline with the conventional fluids then tested it with the syn fluids. They actually gained a few HP. But nothing major.In your everyday car have you ever switched from Conventional motor oil 2 synthetic %26amp; noticed a big difference
I use nothing but synteck in every engine i have. I was a jet engine mechanic and we were first to use synteck oil. it does not breakdown or carbon up your engine. I would nor use anything else. i have not noticed that anything runs better using synteck oil but you do not have to change your oil as often. We would not change oil in the jets just clean the strainer every 60 hours. I change my oil once a year now.
I don't think there is anything that you can visibly see or hear when you make the change. You may notice that your vehicle will run cooler and may see an increase in MPG, but you won't see a drop in your engine RPMs as stated by another user. That's impossible...
You will also see an increase in the ';life'; of the synthetic oil. Thereby, increasing the interval between changes, resulting in financial savings. Plus, the synthetics have a great guarantee.
Well let say this that the cost is the real difference.The really the synthetic oil life is longer than the regular motor oil. Regular motor oil need to be changing around every 3000 to 4000 miles and synthetic need changing around 10000 to 14000 miles the life of is longer and better on the engine parts.The synthenic oil will make your engine run just a little cooler and add life the engine
I've experimented with this numerous times going to synthetic and even back to conventional and then back to synthetic. I can't tell a difference at all in how the engine runs. I do believe synthetics are better oils and are practical if you extend the oil change intervals. Otherwise, it is difficult to justify the added expense of synthetics. If you drive your car 100K miles over its life and you change every 3000 miles you will do 33 oil changes. If you use synthetics and move that up to 6000K miles perhaps it makes sense and then you save time as well plus pollute less with oil disposal. The negative to less frequent oil changes is that you have fewer opportunites to see other potential maintenance items such as corroded battery cables, cracked FWD axle boots or swollen water hoses if anyone pays attention to those items when doing the oil changes. With cars as good as they are today, longer change intervals make some sense. I use them on my personal cars.
Hey bungee! you can actually tell it dropped 75 rpm`s. You must have the only gauge in the area capable of that fine a reading. Did your speedo also read in feet per second? By the way. Mineral oil would make a big difference. It wouldn`t run long.
nothing you could tell from sound unless your realy bad off and youve ran your car low on oil before but if you got the money i suggest do it it helps alot not to mention synthetic wont build up like regular motar oil will
I did on my honda. on cruise control on the same road my engine r p m's dropped about 75 revs with mobil one at the identical set speed
No I can't say that I have but, I read an article a few years back in Car Craft. They took a car and put all syn fluids in. Motor, trans, rear end. Then they ran it on the dyno. They did a baseline with the conventional fluids then tested it with the syn fluids. They actually gained a few HP. But nothing major.In your everyday car have you ever switched from Conventional motor oil 2 synthetic %26amp; noticed a big difference
I use nothing but synteck in every engine i have. I was a jet engine mechanic and we were first to use synteck oil. it does not breakdown or carbon up your engine. I would nor use anything else. i have not noticed that anything runs better using synteck oil but you do not have to change your oil as often. We would not change oil in the jets just clean the strainer every 60 hours. I change my oil once a year now.
I don't think there is anything that you can visibly see or hear when you make the change. You may notice that your vehicle will run cooler and may see an increase in MPG, but you won't see a drop in your engine RPMs as stated by another user. That's impossible...
You will also see an increase in the ';life'; of the synthetic oil. Thereby, increasing the interval between changes, resulting in financial savings. Plus, the synthetics have a great guarantee.
Well let say this that the cost is the real difference.The really the synthetic oil life is longer than the regular motor oil. Regular motor oil need to be changing around every 3000 to 4000 miles and synthetic need changing around 10000 to 14000 miles the life of is longer and better on the engine parts.The synthenic oil will make your engine run just a little cooler and add life the engine
I've experimented with this numerous times going to synthetic and even back to conventional and then back to synthetic. I can't tell a difference at all in how the engine runs. I do believe synthetics are better oils and are practical if you extend the oil change intervals. Otherwise, it is difficult to justify the added expense of synthetics. If you drive your car 100K miles over its life and you change every 3000 miles you will do 33 oil changes. If you use synthetics and move that up to 6000K miles perhaps it makes sense and then you save time as well plus pollute less with oil disposal. The negative to less frequent oil changes is that you have fewer opportunites to see other potential maintenance items such as corroded battery cables, cracked FWD axle boots or swollen water hoses if anyone pays attention to those items when doing the oil changes. With cars as good as they are today, longer change intervals make some sense. I use them on my personal cars.
Hey bungee! you can actually tell it dropped 75 rpm`s. You must have the only gauge in the area capable of that fine a reading. Did your speedo also read in feet per second? By the way. Mineral oil would make a big difference. It wouldn`t run long.
nothing you could tell from sound unless your realy bad off and youve ran your car low on oil before but if you got the money i suggest do it it helps alot not to mention synthetic wont build up like regular motar oil will
I did on my honda. on cruise control on the same road my engine r p m's dropped about 75 revs with mobil one at the identical set speed
Which kind of motor oil should i use on my 96 Honda Accord EX it has about a little >120,000 miles? ?
Use Mobil 5000 10W-30. It keeps the engine running great and clean.Which kind of motor oil should i use on my 96 Honda Accord EX it has about a little %26gt;120,000 miles? ?
Castrol 10W30
i've owned same car before a black 96 lx 4 door.i got it with 50,000 on it and ran it up to 150,000 and was still going strong when i got rid of it. i've always used the castrol.Which kind of motor oil should i use on my 96 Honda Accord EX it has about a little %26gt;120,000 miles? ?
Valvoline MaxLife for cars with over 70k miles.
brand dont really matter as much as weight ive always uses 10w40 in everything ive own
Castrol 10W30
i've owned same car before a black 96 lx 4 door.i got it with 50,000 on it and ran it up to 150,000 and was still going strong when i got rid of it. i've always used the castrol.Which kind of motor oil should i use on my 96 Honda Accord EX it has about a little %26gt;120,000 miles? ?
Valvoline MaxLife for cars with over 70k miles.
brand dont really matter as much as weight ive always uses 10w40 in everything ive own
Have a 1993 nissan 240sx it has 202k miles on it what grade motor oil do i put in it?
i would definitely run Gastrol GTXHave a 1993 nissan 240sx it has 202k miles on it what grade motor oil do i put in it?
depends on whether it burns oil or not. have any problems at start up with rod knock ? and details please :) then i will edit my response would use 10-40 summer and 10-30
winter most older cars take 4-5 quarts at oil change if you are topping off check the dip stick lvl and and accordinglyHave a 1993 nissan 240sx it has 202k miles on it what grade motor oil do i put in it?
if you're burning oil use a heavier weight. My Mrs has a 96 altima that she nearly ran out of oil, we now have to use 50 weight oil because she wore the rings so badly.
Try a barrel of Crude Sweet
always go with full synthetic motor oil.
any high mileage oil.myspace bulletins
depends on whether it burns oil or not. have any problems at start up with rod knock ? and details please :) then i will edit my response would use 10-40 summer and 10-30
winter most older cars take 4-5 quarts at oil change if you are topping off check the dip stick lvl and and accordinglyHave a 1993 nissan 240sx it has 202k miles on it what grade motor oil do i put in it?
if you're burning oil use a heavier weight. My Mrs has a 96 altima that she nearly ran out of oil, we now have to use 50 weight oil because she wore the rings so badly.
Try a barrel of Crude Sweet
always go with full synthetic motor oil.
any high mileage oil.
Whats the best motor oil to put in my 84 firebird its got alot of miles on it and its a V8.?
I think there's a Valvoline oil that is specialized for vehicles with a lot of mileage. Check that out. If it isn't Valvoline, lots of oil makers design oils for cars that have been around the block a few times.Whats the best motor oil to put in my 84 firebird its got alot of miles on it and its a V8.?
I would say Castrol Edge. It really works for me.Whats the best motor oil to put in my 84 firebird its got alot of miles on it and its a V8.?
i have a 88 olds with over 100,000 miles on it and i use 10 w 30 high milage pennzoil in it for the past 3 years now and i dont have any complaints.
Mobil one synthetic oil.
Whats wrong with what you've been using?
I'd use either 5w-30 or 10w-30, high mileage oil would do fine. Any brand of high mileage oil.
Just some good and heavy 10w,..... don't use those additive lubes they just screw with old engines..
I would say Castrol Edge. It really works for me.Whats the best motor oil to put in my 84 firebird its got alot of miles on it and its a V8.?
i have a 88 olds with over 100,000 miles on it and i use 10 w 30 high milage pennzoil in it for the past 3 years now and i dont have any complaints.
Mobil one synthetic oil.
Whats wrong with what you've been using?
I'd use either 5w-30 or 10w-30, high mileage oil would do fine. Any brand of high mileage oil.
Just some good and heavy 10w,..... don't use those additive lubes they just screw with old engines..
Question about car motor oil?
My husband was wondering if any of you knew who makes Advance Auto brand store motor oil?Question about car motor oil?
i don't know but oil is oil, the cheap oil is just as good as the high priced pretty labeled oil. just make sure and change it every 3000 milesQuestion about car motor oil?
look on the back of the bottle
No, but make the trip into town and find out. Most oils are rated for different applications. Look on the back of the can or bottle If it meets or exceeds requirements of ILSAC GF4,GF3, API SIM and previous API standards then it really does not mater what brand you use. It doesn't necessarily have to be advance auto brand.
i don't know but oil is oil, the cheap oil is just as good as the high priced pretty labeled oil. just make sure and change it every 3000 milesQuestion about car motor oil?
look on the back of the bottle
No, but make the trip into town and find out. Most oils are rated for different applications. Look on the back of the can or bottle If it meets or exceeds requirements of ILSAC GF4,GF3, API SIM and previous API standards then it really does not mater what brand you use. It doesn't necessarily have to be advance auto brand.
Why is my motor oil milky?
its a bike not a car. and the new oil has stayed the same colour as it was when it went in and it still starts first kick and runs like a charmWhy is my motor oil milky?
Water will accumulate in the oil in colder months due to condensation. Milky looking oil is a sign that you have water in it.Why is my motor oil milky?
Sounds like a blown or leaky head gasket. Oil turns milky white when it mixes with antifreeze.
Water in the oil - change it.
you put milk in the oil reservoir
Well if your bike is water cooled it might of blown a head gasket,check your rad cap and see if is grey on the bottom of the cap
pretty sure you water in it, check with dealer or good bike shop what to do next. probably a good flush,
if it was milky when put in why wonder now . otherwise condensation is possible if making short trips.
Same reason there is sugar in your gas tank...
Eat your cereal in the kitchen not while you work on your bike
Seems your oil contaminated with water and turns into yellow milky colours.
Assuming the bike is water cooled %26amp; not loseing coolant, or is air cooled.
The most likely cause is condensation, this is very common in vehicles that do very short journeys and or are running too cold due to faulty thermostat (Water cooled).
Also certain brands of oil seem worse than others.
Water will accumulate in the oil in colder months due to condensation. Milky looking oil is a sign that you have water in it.Why is my motor oil milky?
Sounds like a blown or leaky head gasket. Oil turns milky white when it mixes with antifreeze.
Water in the oil - change it.
you put milk in the oil reservoir
Well if your bike is water cooled it might of blown a head gasket,check your rad cap and see if is grey on the bottom of the cap
pretty sure you water in it, check with dealer or good bike shop what to do next. probably a good flush,
if it was milky when put in why wonder now . otherwise condensation is possible if making short trips.
Same reason there is sugar in your gas tank...
Eat your cereal in the kitchen not while you work on your bike
Seems your oil contaminated with water and turns into yellow milky colours.
Assuming the bike is water cooled %26amp; not loseing coolant, or is air cooled.
The most likely cause is condensation, this is very common in vehicles that do very short journeys and or are running too cold due to faulty thermostat (Water cooled).
Also certain brands of oil seem worse than others.
I accidentally put a little of transmission oil in my motor ?
That will not harm anything. Transmission fluid is high detergent and will actually clean sludge out of the engine. Less than an ounce added to the oil will not even do much in the way of removing sludge.
You have nothing to worry about. When you have the oil changed again, it may appear dirtier than normal, but other than that, there will be no effect!
I accidentally put a little of transmission oil in my motor ?
welll lets see. if you put in say a half quart i would change it. but dont get upset because trans oil is a good way to get all that sludge out of the engines oil passages. and a 1/2 quart is just about right. so run it around town for a day or 3 and change it.I accidentally put a little of transmission oil in my motor ?
it won,t harm your motor. if anything it will clean your motor. just drive it and when the next time comes around to change it just change the oil and filter. believe me, your motor will be just fine. if your talking just a little bit then it won,t hurt nothing.
Trans oil is 10 weight oil. this only will 'thin' the oil a little,the additives added to #10 oil to make it better for trans will cause no damage to your engine. So if you added a quart or less you have done no harm.
';BRILLIANT';!!!!
Your crankcase usually holds an extra quart of oil anyway. Just on the next change then you be ok. The oil is thinner and does breakdown on excessive heat. Not very good of lubrication hot parts.
I would do a full oil change immediately and you should be ok. I wouldnt drive anywhere with transmission oil in the motor though.
It all depends on how much ';a little'; is...
You have nothing to worry about. When you have the oil changed again, it may appear dirtier than normal, but other than that, there will be no effect!
I accidentally put a little of transmission oil in my motor ?
welll lets see. if you put in say a half quart i would change it. but dont get upset because trans oil is a good way to get all that sludge out of the engines oil passages. and a 1/2 quart is just about right. so run it around town for a day or 3 and change it.I accidentally put a little of transmission oil in my motor ?
it won,t harm your motor. if anything it will clean your motor. just drive it and when the next time comes around to change it just change the oil and filter. believe me, your motor will be just fine. if your talking just a little bit then it won,t hurt nothing.
Trans oil is 10 weight oil. this only will 'thin' the oil a little,the additives added to #10 oil to make it better for trans will cause no damage to your engine. So if you added a quart or less you have done no harm.
';BRILLIANT';!!!!
Your crankcase usually holds an extra quart of oil anyway. Just on the next change then you be ok. The oil is thinner and does breakdown on excessive heat. Not very good of lubrication hot parts.
I would do a full oil change immediately and you should be ok. I wouldnt drive anywhere with transmission oil in the motor though.
It all depends on how much ';a little'; is...
Spilled some motor oil, in my engine.?
I won't blow up will I?....Whiped up what i could get too, but a few drops went down into the engine.Spilled some motor oil, in my engine.?
nope you'll be fine.. it will burn itself off.. it will smoke some and smell kinda bad for awhile but u wont blow up lolSpilled some motor oil, in my engine.?
no you will be fine it will smoke a little thats all dont worry about it.
Nothing will happen. if it was just a little oil it will burn off.if it was a lot of oil simply wipe off what you can reach and let the rest burn off.the chance that it made it into the engine is very small otherwise oil would come out. and cars do'nt blow up like they do in the movies
no it will be fine...the majority of it will burn off as a blue smoke and then you'll be left with a slight residue of byproducts which can be easily wiped away when the engine cools
nope you'll be fine.. it will burn itself off.. it will smoke some and smell kinda bad for awhile but u wont blow up lolSpilled some motor oil, in my engine.?
no you will be fine it will smoke a little thats all dont worry about it.
Nothing will happen. if it was just a little oil it will burn off.if it was a lot of oil simply wipe off what you can reach and let the rest burn off.the chance that it made it into the engine is very small otherwise oil would come out. and cars do'nt blow up like they do in the movies
no it will be fine...the majority of it will burn off as a blue smoke and then you'll be left with a slight residue of byproducts which can be easily wiped away when the engine cools
Are motor oils especially for higher mileage vehicles worth it?
like valvoline maxlife is it really better or different than regular cheaper motor oil? i ask because i want to know what to keep getting for my 95' Dodge Intrepid with 138,000 miles. I just want to know what would be best to keep my car running good.Are motor oils especially for higher mileage vehicles worth it?
moo moo you shouldn't change from conventional oil to full synthetic, the conventional oil is thicker and fills in grooves and defects in the motor caused by time, if you go full synthetic which is thinner you will lose that and develop compression problems and oil loss. And to answer the first question, higher mile oil is a joke, all it is is conventional oil with an anti smoke additive to make it thicker. the price difference between so called cheap oil and an additive and the high mile oil is just to far away. how much are you willing to pay for not adding the additive yourself? if you buy it you are just paying for the convenience.Are motor oils especially for higher mileage vehicles worth it?
If your car has no problems, isn't using oil, and you are using a quality synthetic, blend, or dino oil as per the manual, you don't need the high-mileage oil, yet. These oils help with seals that may have shrunk, so if you have minor oil use due to a little leakage, then they can be a definite help. I have used them, but I get a little better mileage, and better winter starting in my 95 Escort, using synthetic blend oils.
Yes, a motor oil company rep for a company that dosen't even have a high milage oil told a class I was in that high milage oil will keep your seals in better shape than regular oil.
Yes high mileage oil is better than cheaper regular oil. To me it's worth it because the better oils lubricate, clean, and protect your engine better. It can make your car run smoother and idle better. In most cases even increase horsepower and increase gas mileage at the same time.
If you want the best oil money can buy go with Royal Purple. You can go longer between oil changes by using a premium oil thereby actually making the cost about the same while get better quality.
Make sure to use a premium oil filter as well to maximize the benefits. PureOne Micro Fiber oil filters are the only thing I use on my car.
On the low level oil the brands really don't make a difference but there is a big difference when you start looking at the more expensive higher end oils.
Look up Amsoil on the internet. Amsoil is better than Mobil One, and will keep your car running at it's best.
Valvoline Maxlife is an excellent product for higher mileage engines. Price is middle of the road and good value. Change oil %26amp; filter every 6 months/5,000 miles and your engine will last forever!
Well said, Fred. If your car isn't losing oil, there's no need to pay extra for high mileage oil. Although, I think if you're going to go synthetic, skip the blends. Either go conventional or synthetic, preferrably the latter. And don't concern yourself too much about the brand. Most brand name oils are almost identical. You're paying extra for their marketing.myspace bulletins
moo moo you shouldn't change from conventional oil to full synthetic, the conventional oil is thicker and fills in grooves and defects in the motor caused by time, if you go full synthetic which is thinner you will lose that and develop compression problems and oil loss. And to answer the first question, higher mile oil is a joke, all it is is conventional oil with an anti smoke additive to make it thicker. the price difference between so called cheap oil and an additive and the high mile oil is just to far away. how much are you willing to pay for not adding the additive yourself? if you buy it you are just paying for the convenience.Are motor oils especially for higher mileage vehicles worth it?
If your car has no problems, isn't using oil, and you are using a quality synthetic, blend, or dino oil as per the manual, you don't need the high-mileage oil, yet. These oils help with seals that may have shrunk, so if you have minor oil use due to a little leakage, then they can be a definite help. I have used them, but I get a little better mileage, and better winter starting in my 95 Escort, using synthetic blend oils.
Yes, a motor oil company rep for a company that dosen't even have a high milage oil told a class I was in that high milage oil will keep your seals in better shape than regular oil.
Yes high mileage oil is better than cheaper regular oil. To me it's worth it because the better oils lubricate, clean, and protect your engine better. It can make your car run smoother and idle better. In most cases even increase horsepower and increase gas mileage at the same time.
If you want the best oil money can buy go with Royal Purple. You can go longer between oil changes by using a premium oil thereby actually making the cost about the same while get better quality.
Make sure to use a premium oil filter as well to maximize the benefits. PureOne Micro Fiber oil filters are the only thing I use on my car.
On the low level oil the brands really don't make a difference but there is a big difference when you start looking at the more expensive higher end oils.
Look up Amsoil on the internet. Amsoil is better than Mobil One, and will keep your car running at it's best.
Valvoline Maxlife is an excellent product for higher mileage engines. Price is middle of the road and good value. Change oil %26amp; filter every 6 months/5,000 miles and your engine will last forever!
Well said, Fred. If your car isn't losing oil, there's no need to pay extra for high mileage oil. Although, I think if you're going to go synthetic, skip the blends. Either go conventional or synthetic, preferrably the latter. And don't concern yourself too much about the brand. Most brand name oils are almost identical. You're paying extra for their marketing.
Why is my boat motor blowing milky oil from exhaust manifold?
you blew your headgasket,allowing oil and water into cylinder,u may be able to fix yourselfWhy is my boat motor blowing milky oil from exhaust manifold?
hi ho hi ho its off to the marine motor doctor your motor does go, its cheaper neater and gives you more time to plan and repair your craft hi ho hi ho off fishing I go..Why is my boat motor blowing milky oil from exhaust manifold?
You most likely have blown a head gasket and this is allowing water into the cylinder.
somehow oil is mixing with water.
it had to ***
hi ho hi ho its off to the marine motor doctor your motor does go, its cheaper neater and gives you more time to plan and repair your craft hi ho hi ho off fishing I go..Why is my boat motor blowing milky oil from exhaust manifold?
You most likely have blown a head gasket and this is allowing water into the cylinder.
somehow oil is mixing with water.
it had to ***
What motor oil is better? Castrol or Pennzoil?
I chose castrol 5 years ago and still with it. When I was looking for which kind of oil i made up a test of my own. I got some some glass vials and put a sample in each. I did this with castrol, kendall, quakerstate and pennzoil. I heated them up to a boil for 1 minutes each and let them cool. I did this over the next few days about 10 times on each. I dont know if this is a very acurate test but the results made me choose castrol. The kendall oil went from green to damn near milk looking and stayed that way. The QS had the worse smell of rotten eggs I had ever smelt in my life, The pennz darkend alot. And the castrol barely changed in color. So take that how ya will.What motor oil is better? Castrol or Pennzoil?
Pennzoil (Shell US's flagship line) is without a doubt a better product than Castrol (BP), and has been for the last 10 years at least. Pennzoil Yellow Bottle uses a Group II+ base versus Castrol's Group II. Pennzoil Platinum meets two major specs that Castol Syntec doesn't - GM4718M %26amp; Acura HTO-0 Report Abuse
What motor oil is better? Castrol or Pennzoil?
As someone Else said.they are all SAE rated, and that's what really counts. Now it comes down to which company has done the best job of advertising.........Probably Castrol does a better advertising job than Pennzoil. Having used both oils over a period of 40 years, weight for weight, I found both more than acceptable. The real key is changing them every 3000 miles, regardless of what the manufacture may tell you about 6000 mile oil changes, and using a good quality oil filter.
1 the SAE rating defines the quality of an oil eg SJ or SM. SM is currently the highest standard. It costs money to have your oils rated
PEnzoil has not paid and so their oils are not rated.You have to trust them.
2 MOST important clean oils are NOT BLACK. Clean oils are honey coloured. The blackness comes from carbon in the oil. Carbon absorbs
chemicals and sucks the ';life'; out of rubber seals in your engine.
Castrol GTX oils are black when new, they are pre carboned and are bad for your engine. After the warranty runs out you will have big repair bills. Also if the apprentice is busy he can just change the filter and top up the oil and you will never know since the ';new'; oil is black anyway.
3. Oil degrades quickly synthetics begin to degrade after 2 weeks and
non synthetics begin to degrade after 1 week. Changing the oil at 3 months or 3000 miles is a good preventative step.
4 Read the owners manual carefully they will say lots of trips which are
long / or short / or hot or cold need oil changes more frequent than the
advertized service interval
I have friend who is a mechanic he shared this with me and has a camry with the original engine and 320,000 Km on a mitsubishi van
Its a lot of personal preference. Depends on the kind of motor your running too. I may be talking out of my ***, but when I drove honda's and toyotas Used Castrol GTX only 10w 30. I currently own a 92 mitsubishi galant vr4 which is turbo and I run nothing but mobile 1 synthetic. Once you use synthetic though I wouldn't recommend returning to a normal oil.
I am a big fan of Castrol motor oils and I definitely think it is a superior brand to Penzoil. One of their claims for GTX is that it prevents sludge better than any of the other brands 鈥?I totally believe it. Another benefit is they have a rewards program where you can win stuff anytime you buy oil 鈥? www.castrolcredits.com. I always like to get something back for my purchase.
All oil is rated by the Society of Automotive Engineers. That is where the SAE comes from, They all have to meet the same standards. You might as well as ask what 100 watt light bulb is brigther, G.E bulbs or a Sylvania?
i don,t really car what others say, i used pennzoil for several years and i never had trouble with any engine. right now if you pull my valve pans off it,s as clean as it can be. pennzoil is my choice.
Depends on your vehicle according to my dad. He had me using Pennzoil 10W40 in my Buick LeSabre. But I now have a Chevy Blazer and he has me use a 10W30 weight.
Castrol by far. Penzoil has parifin in it which causes more engine ';gunk';. (Parafin is a wax like substance)
I use full synthetic Mobil. Better than both. Saved my engine once when I has a cam shaft seal blow out and lost all the oil.
castrol is so says consumer reports i use valvoliene 30 w myself
Castrol.
Castrol.
Castrol GTX
Castrol GTX
Pennzoil
Pennzoil...wwwaayy betta.
Wesson.
Castrol is wayyy better
Pennzoil (Shell US's flagship line) is without a doubt a better product than Castrol (BP), and has been for the last 10 years at least. Pennzoil Yellow Bottle uses a Group II+ base versus Castrol's Group II. Pennzoil Platinum meets two major specs that Castol Syntec doesn't - GM4718M %26amp; Acura HTO-0 Report Abuse
What motor oil is better? Castrol or Pennzoil?
As someone Else said.they are all SAE rated, and that's what really counts. Now it comes down to which company has done the best job of advertising.........Probably Castrol does a better advertising job than Pennzoil. Having used both oils over a period of 40 years, weight for weight, I found both more than acceptable. The real key is changing them every 3000 miles, regardless of what the manufacture may tell you about 6000 mile oil changes, and using a good quality oil filter.
1 the SAE rating defines the quality of an oil eg SJ or SM. SM is currently the highest standard. It costs money to have your oils rated
PEnzoil has not paid and so their oils are not rated.You have to trust them.
2 MOST important clean oils are NOT BLACK. Clean oils are honey coloured. The blackness comes from carbon in the oil. Carbon absorbs
chemicals and sucks the ';life'; out of rubber seals in your engine.
Castrol GTX oils are black when new, they are pre carboned and are bad for your engine. After the warranty runs out you will have big repair bills. Also if the apprentice is busy he can just change the filter and top up the oil and you will never know since the ';new'; oil is black anyway.
3. Oil degrades quickly synthetics begin to degrade after 2 weeks and
non synthetics begin to degrade after 1 week. Changing the oil at 3 months or 3000 miles is a good preventative step.
4 Read the owners manual carefully they will say lots of trips which are
long / or short / or hot or cold need oil changes more frequent than the
advertized service interval
I have friend who is a mechanic he shared this with me and has a camry with the original engine and 320,000 Km on a mitsubishi van
Its a lot of personal preference. Depends on the kind of motor your running too. I may be talking out of my ***, but when I drove honda's and toyotas Used Castrol GTX only 10w 30. I currently own a 92 mitsubishi galant vr4 which is turbo and I run nothing but mobile 1 synthetic. Once you use synthetic though I wouldn't recommend returning to a normal oil.
I am a big fan of Castrol motor oils and I definitely think it is a superior brand to Penzoil. One of their claims for GTX is that it prevents sludge better than any of the other brands 鈥?I totally believe it. Another benefit is they have a rewards program where you can win stuff anytime you buy oil 鈥? www.castrolcredits.com. I always like to get something back for my purchase.
All oil is rated by the Society of Automotive Engineers. That is where the SAE comes from, They all have to meet the same standards. You might as well as ask what 100 watt light bulb is brigther, G.E bulbs or a Sylvania?
i don,t really car what others say, i used pennzoil for several years and i never had trouble with any engine. right now if you pull my valve pans off it,s as clean as it can be. pennzoil is my choice.
Depends on your vehicle according to my dad. He had me using Pennzoil 10W40 in my Buick LeSabre. But I now have a Chevy Blazer and he has me use a 10W30 weight.
Castrol by far. Penzoil has parifin in it which causes more engine ';gunk';. (Parafin is a wax like substance)
I use full synthetic Mobil. Better than both. Saved my engine once when I has a cam shaft seal blow out and lost all the oil.
castrol is so says consumer reports i use valvoliene 30 w myself
Castrol.
Castrol.
Castrol GTX
Castrol GTX
Pennzoil
Pennzoil...wwwaayy betta.
Wesson.
Castrol is wayyy better
Can i make black diesel with synthetic motor oil?
No, NO, NO.
Motor oil has a variety of properities that willleave deposits and other bad things on your rings, pistons and cylinders. It is also usually ';thicker'; than diesel and will be more dificult to draw through your injection pump. Yes, it will burn in your engine...but it is a very bad idea.
Motor oil has a variety of properities that willleave deposits and other bad things on your rings, pistons and cylinders. It is also usually ';thicker'; than diesel and will be more dificult to draw through your injection pump. Yes, it will burn in your engine...but it is a very bad idea.
Do different weight motor oils really affect the car THAT much or is it just preference?
My car suggests 5W-20, but if I use, say, 5W-30, what's the harm? Will I damage the engine somehow? What other negative consequences might result? What about using higher viscosity oils for ';older'; engines? Is that recommended or does it do any good?Do different weight motor oils really affect the car THAT much or is it just preference?
everyone else SHUT UP
sorry Dodge man and the other guy.. Eric. I did give you a thumbs up vote
OIl 101;
First and foremost the major difference in oil is viscosity the bigger the single digit oil the slower it will run this holds true at any temperature.
Then there are multi viscosity oils. In an effort to simplify the issue, they take really thin oil that is easy to pump and will flow in every nook and cranny that needs oil (when it is cold) and add some “gunk” that makes it stiff and sticky when it is hot. This is a very very good thing.
The major reason why just about every manufacturer changed to a standard 5w-*.* oil was to improve cold start up lubrication. The minor reason is because the oil is easy to pump there is less wear and tear on the pump and its drive system. And on the + not the thinner oil does not take as much gas to pump around and around.
Manufacturers choose an average operating oil that should match the engine under average conditions, so they usually use a *.*w- 20 to 30 oil. This is an all around good oil. Forced induction engines usually go with a 30 to 50-weight oil because they run hotter because of the extra load and heat generated by the supercharging system (turbo or belt). They need the thicker oil to stick to the parts because at the higher temp it is not as “runny”
If you would like to see the + affects rebuild an engine and try to break it in using a true synthetic or an oil such as GTX 20w-50. IT TAKES FOREVER FOR THE RINGS TO SET this demonstrates the superior lubricating properties.
On the Negative side. Run a 20w-50 or straight 50 in a car and see how long it takes for the oil pressure to come up to normal………….. FOREVER. This happens because the cold oil is cavitating in the pump and it is not lubricating the engine at that time. This gets worse and worse, as the temp gets lower.
Another problem is this. Take an older engine that has a trimming belt that should have been changed more than a few miles ago, (most say 60,000 miles) and start that car up at 0 F…… see how many times you can do that without breaking the belt and I will say that you have more guts than I do.
In conclusion:
If you are the person that lets a car heat up in the winter till the windows are nice and clean, then drive a 50+-mile commute, use thicker oil. And change it every 4,000 miles
If you just love to turn that key and give it Hell for 3 miles on the way to work go a smidge thinner. And change it every 2,000 miles
In any event the in both cases the engines will run as far or longer than normal.
20w-50 is race oil that you can use on the street and is mostly hype. Synthetics are very good but mostly just cost the same in the long run as replacing the engine after about 200000 miles. So do what you want. If you are average use the book if your not average USE YOUR HEAD
just to make a point about everyone with there engines
factory stock 1963 rambler 660 classic with a 287 V8 345,000miles
never opened but 2 timming chains and one oil pump.and 4 water pumps 10w-40
1996 Olds 88-Royal 290,000 miles Synthetic. a timming chain and 10w-40
1986 omni 2.2 GLHS turbo (275hp) 20w-50 win the winter and straight 50 summer
1996 Sable 176,000 75hp nos wat kit and 10w-30 summer and 5w-30 winter (cracked the heads but that is not an oil issue)
and about the ';garontee';
I have never ever met a ';mechanhick'; factory trained or collage educated or otherwise that even new about a viscocity meter let alone use one. or even know how to change a Ford viscocity time into an SAE oil wieght.
PS
sorry Dodge man and the other guy. I did give you a thumbs up voteDo different weight motor oils really affect the car THAT much or is it just preference?
The different weights in multi viscosity oils have to do with how thick or thin they are at various temperatures.
For an explanation on how oil viscosity is labeled on the container, follow the first link below. For you overachievers, follow the second link.
I would stick with the manufacturers recommendations rather than trying to second guess the engineers that designed the engine
none of the oils you mentioned wont harm the engine they recommend the thinner oils because the lubricate a lot better that's all,a thicker oil has to warm up before it will flow good a thinner oil doesn't, it will flow good when cold,if you car runs good on the 5-w-30 id stay with it,its a good oil especially if your in a cold environment ,the thinner oils is better to have in it,good luck with it.
Its like low calorie mayonnaise. Its better yea but will it make a noticeable difference probably not.
The viscosity of motor oil tells how readily it will flow. A multi-viscosity oil is designed to flow differently depending on the temperature. The first number is the ';cold'; value and the second number is the ';hot'; value.
5W-20 oil is thinner than 5W-30 oil. The ';cold'; value is the same, but the ';hot'; value is higher. In other words, 5W-30 will be thicker when it's hot than 5W-20.
My recommendation: stick with the 5W-20. That's what your car's engine was designed to operate most efficiently on.
You should really use what the manufacturer of your car suggests. That is what your engine call for!
use th recommended numbers... if you use a thicker oil then the engine will have to work harder to pass it.. if you use a thinner oil it might burn out to quickly..... in the winter you dont want a thick oil because it takes too long to heat up and can damage your car.. good luck
Between those 2 I wouldn't sweat it much.
The manufacturer doesn't go into it, and for good reason, they want people to be satisfied with the car, so they keep it simple and safe.
The W is for winter. 5W-30 for example is a multi-viscosity oil. It is actually 5 weight oil, quite light. And it thickens to 30 weight when hot. This makes starting easier in cold weather. But for proper protection that engine needs thicker oil.
This is the main reason they recommend changing oil every 3000 miles. The ingredients that cause the oil to thicken begin to fail by that point, and you will be left with the 5 weight base oil, which isn't good enough.
Engine age doesn't mean much. Engine condition is everything. Lot's of stop and go is rough on the engine and a little heavier oil can prolong the life.
There's a slight horsepower advantage with lighter oil.
I recommend, if you make it a point to pay attention, to use straight weight oil, 30 weight, except in winter, where 10W or 5W 30 is a much better option. This is best especially if you're bad about regular oil changes. You'd be surprised how
much additional life you can get out of the engine by doing that.
If it doesn't have one now, get an oil plug with a magnet.
Incidentally, I had about 330,000 on my '81 Delta 88 and a little over 200,000 on my '93 Bravada (which I broke, threw a rod racing one night) 128,000 now on the Blazer, runs perfectly. I've never had a car with less than 100,000 on it.
You are pretty well on track. 5w-30 is fine. older engines do use higher vis. to prevent oil burn and leaking.
In the winter you might go to a lighter oil. though 5w is pretty light.
to keep waranty stay with the recomendations dont use additives check with the dealer to be safe
the reason they recommend 5w20 is it will give you slightly better mileage... nothing bad will happen if you use 5w30. as for higher viscosity for older engines- get an oil pressure gauge and watch it... if the oil pressure is low (under 15psi warm) you may want to switch to a heavier oil, or if it burns oil- switching to a heavier oil may slow down oil consumption. if it has good oil pressure and doesnt burn oil then dont worry about it.
It doesn't really matter as long as you don't go too thick or too thin. the thickness of the oil can affect running temps so if the oils too thick you'll use more juice.
don't laugh it's true.
stick to the manufacturers specs, unless youve suped it up in which case youll need a high performance oil(a thicker one)
everyone else SHUT UP
sorry Dodge man and the other guy.. Eric. I did give you a thumbs up vote
OIl 101;
First and foremost the major difference in oil is viscosity the bigger the single digit oil the slower it will run this holds true at any temperature.
Then there are multi viscosity oils. In an effort to simplify the issue, they take really thin oil that is easy to pump and will flow in every nook and cranny that needs oil (when it is cold) and add some “gunk” that makes it stiff and sticky when it is hot. This is a very very good thing.
The major reason why just about every manufacturer changed to a standard 5w-*.* oil was to improve cold start up lubrication. The minor reason is because the oil is easy to pump there is less wear and tear on the pump and its drive system. And on the + not the thinner oil does not take as much gas to pump around and around.
Manufacturers choose an average operating oil that should match the engine under average conditions, so they usually use a *.*w- 20 to 30 oil. This is an all around good oil. Forced induction engines usually go with a 30 to 50-weight oil because they run hotter because of the extra load and heat generated by the supercharging system (turbo or belt). They need the thicker oil to stick to the parts because at the higher temp it is not as “runny”
If you would like to see the + affects rebuild an engine and try to break it in using a true synthetic or an oil such as GTX 20w-50. IT TAKES FOREVER FOR THE RINGS TO SET this demonstrates the superior lubricating properties.
On the Negative side. Run a 20w-50 or straight 50 in a car and see how long it takes for the oil pressure to come up to normal………….. FOREVER. This happens because the cold oil is cavitating in the pump and it is not lubricating the engine at that time. This gets worse and worse, as the temp gets lower.
Another problem is this. Take an older engine that has a trimming belt that should have been changed more than a few miles ago, (most say 60,000 miles) and start that car up at 0 F…… see how many times you can do that without breaking the belt and I will say that you have more guts than I do.
In conclusion:
If you are the person that lets a car heat up in the winter till the windows are nice and clean, then drive a 50+-mile commute, use thicker oil. And change it every 4,000 miles
If you just love to turn that key and give it Hell for 3 miles on the way to work go a smidge thinner. And change it every 2,000 miles
In any event the in both cases the engines will run as far or longer than normal.
20w-50 is race oil that you can use on the street and is mostly hype. Synthetics are very good but mostly just cost the same in the long run as replacing the engine after about 200000 miles. So do what you want. If you are average use the book if your not average USE YOUR HEAD
just to make a point about everyone with there engines
factory stock 1963 rambler 660 classic with a 287 V8 345,000miles
never opened but 2 timming chains and one oil pump.and 4 water pumps 10w-40
1996 Olds 88-Royal 290,000 miles Synthetic. a timming chain and 10w-40
1986 omni 2.2 GLHS turbo (275hp) 20w-50 win the winter and straight 50 summer
1996 Sable 176,000 75hp nos wat kit and 10w-30 summer and 5w-30 winter (cracked the heads but that is not an oil issue)
and about the ';garontee';
I have never ever met a ';mechanhick'; factory trained or collage educated or otherwise that even new about a viscocity meter let alone use one. or even know how to change a Ford viscocity time into an SAE oil wieght.
PS
sorry Dodge man and the other guy. I did give you a thumbs up voteDo different weight motor oils really affect the car THAT much or is it just preference?
The different weights in multi viscosity oils have to do with how thick or thin they are at various temperatures.
For an explanation on how oil viscosity is labeled on the container, follow the first link below. For you overachievers, follow the second link.
I would stick with the manufacturers recommendations rather than trying to second guess the engineers that designed the engine
none of the oils you mentioned wont harm the engine they recommend the thinner oils because the lubricate a lot better that's all,a thicker oil has to warm up before it will flow good a thinner oil doesn't, it will flow good when cold,if you car runs good on the 5-w-30 id stay with it,its a good oil especially if your in a cold environment ,the thinner oils is better to have in it,good luck with it.
Its like low calorie mayonnaise. Its better yea but will it make a noticeable difference probably not.
The viscosity of motor oil tells how readily it will flow. A multi-viscosity oil is designed to flow differently depending on the temperature. The first number is the ';cold'; value and the second number is the ';hot'; value.
5W-20 oil is thinner than 5W-30 oil. The ';cold'; value is the same, but the ';hot'; value is higher. In other words, 5W-30 will be thicker when it's hot than 5W-20.
My recommendation: stick with the 5W-20. That's what your car's engine was designed to operate most efficiently on.
You should really use what the manufacturer of your car suggests. That is what your engine call for!
use th recommended numbers... if you use a thicker oil then the engine will have to work harder to pass it.. if you use a thinner oil it might burn out to quickly..... in the winter you dont want a thick oil because it takes too long to heat up and can damage your car.. good luck
Between those 2 I wouldn't sweat it much.
The manufacturer doesn't go into it, and for good reason, they want people to be satisfied with the car, so they keep it simple and safe.
The W is for winter. 5W-30 for example is a multi-viscosity oil. It is actually 5 weight oil, quite light. And it thickens to 30 weight when hot. This makes starting easier in cold weather. But for proper protection that engine needs thicker oil.
This is the main reason they recommend changing oil every 3000 miles. The ingredients that cause the oil to thicken begin to fail by that point, and you will be left with the 5 weight base oil, which isn't good enough.
Engine age doesn't mean much. Engine condition is everything. Lot's of stop and go is rough on the engine and a little heavier oil can prolong the life.
There's a slight horsepower advantage with lighter oil.
I recommend, if you make it a point to pay attention, to use straight weight oil, 30 weight, except in winter, where 10W or 5W 30 is a much better option. This is best especially if you're bad about regular oil changes. You'd be surprised how
much additional life you can get out of the engine by doing that.
If it doesn't have one now, get an oil plug with a magnet.
Incidentally, I had about 330,000 on my '81 Delta 88 and a little over 200,000 on my '93 Bravada (which I broke, threw a rod racing one night) 128,000 now on the Blazer, runs perfectly. I've never had a car with less than 100,000 on it.
You are pretty well on track. 5w-30 is fine. older engines do use higher vis. to prevent oil burn and leaking.
In the winter you might go to a lighter oil. though 5w is pretty light.
to keep waranty stay with the recomendations dont use additives check with the dealer to be safe
the reason they recommend 5w20 is it will give you slightly better mileage... nothing bad will happen if you use 5w30. as for higher viscosity for older engines- get an oil pressure gauge and watch it... if the oil pressure is low (under 15psi warm) you may want to switch to a heavier oil, or if it burns oil- switching to a heavier oil may slow down oil consumption. if it has good oil pressure and doesnt burn oil then dont worry about it.
It doesn't really matter as long as you don't go too thick or too thin. the thickness of the oil can affect running temps so if the oils too thick you'll use more juice.
don't laugh it's true.
stick to the manufacturers specs, unless youve suped it up in which case youll need a high performance oil(a thicker one)
Why is it that motor oil prices haven't gone up at the same rate as gasoline price?
Because motor oil has always been over priced!Why is it that motor oil prices haven't gone up at the same rate as gasoline price?
Because it isnt a huge huge world expence, not everyone is buying lots of motor oil everyday, and the motor oil that is produced is usually from the US anyways, most of the gasoline comes from reserves and the oil for gasoline comes from overseasWhy is it that motor oil prices haven't gone up at the same rate as gasoline price?
Homeslice,
The answer is pretty simple. In the refining process or (cracking) the longer the process the lighter or more refined oils become and are more expensive to produce like gasoline and kerosene. motor oils are more viscous are require less refining and are therefore cheaper to produce.
That's actually quite simple. People are not driving nearly as far, to conserve gas, and are getting their oil change far less often. It's simple supply and demand. The lower the demand, the lower the price.
Because the demand for motor oil isn't as high. You need a lot of gas for every car, but not nearly as much motor oil.
The oil industry has no control over motor oil, only petroleum.
Becuae of the way it is processed. Its easier to make motor oil than gasoline...Its a different type of oil.
Gasoline comes from light sweet crude oil.
Theats the price everyone is talking about by the barrel
And why did propane prices go up? It has nothing to do with gasoline?
I believe it is simply because motor oil is a low grade oil for one... How often do you need to change your oil versus fill your gas tank that might help to answer the question(hint... gas is in higher demand a higher grade of oil as well).
Because it isnt a huge huge world expence, not everyone is buying lots of motor oil everyday, and the motor oil that is produced is usually from the US anyways, most of the gasoline comes from reserves and the oil for gasoline comes from overseasWhy is it that motor oil prices haven't gone up at the same rate as gasoline price?
Homeslice,
The answer is pretty simple. In the refining process or (cracking) the longer the process the lighter or more refined oils become and are more expensive to produce like gasoline and kerosene. motor oils are more viscous are require less refining and are therefore cheaper to produce.
That's actually quite simple. People are not driving nearly as far, to conserve gas, and are getting their oil change far less often. It's simple supply and demand. The lower the demand, the lower the price.
Because the demand for motor oil isn't as high. You need a lot of gas for every car, but not nearly as much motor oil.
The oil industry has no control over motor oil, only petroleum.
Becuae of the way it is processed. Its easier to make motor oil than gasoline...Its a different type of oil.
Gasoline comes from light sweet crude oil.
Theats the price everyone is talking about by the barrel
And why did propane prices go up? It has nothing to do with gasoline?
I believe it is simply because motor oil is a low grade oil for one... How often do you need to change your oil versus fill your gas tank that might help to answer the question(hint... gas is in higher demand a higher grade of oil as well).
Anything wrong with using motor oil(synthethic) on a bicycle chain and gears?
Synthetic motor oil now days is certainly thin enough for chain use. the molecular structure of synthetic oil is fantastic and is great at what it is designed to do - resist high sheer loads in an engine. That is all it is really good for. On a chain you do not have sheer but rotational friction inside the roller at the pin. That is actually the only place that the lubrication is necessary. The very reason why chain lubricants are made to penetrate is the outside needs no lubrication.
You don't want to use motor oil because it will:
1. Sling off the chain as it it made to film off of parts and be pumped though a filter and back into engine parts. Engineers worked really hard to make it perfect for that job.
2. Attract dirt. Another property that those good petroleum engineers did was make a product that carries the contaminants to the filter. Bikes don't of course have that filter so the gritty material will wear your chain and gears.
3. It is wash out resistant. Good for resisting rain, but it resists mild chain cleaners too. Oh, you can cut it, but usually to remove it all you need a solvent not detergent.
The types of products you want for a chain:
1. Wax based ';dry'; lubricant. This is a modern formulation of a wax made to emulate paraffin that used to be melted onto chains. This new chemical mix is a carrying solvent and wax that penetrates where you need it and the solvent evaporates leaving the wax behind to do the lubrication. Since wax is dry no attraction of dirt. Wax is also very water proof so it's good in the rain. Draw back is that this formula is the hardest to clean off a chain, and your chain had to be thoroughly cleaned of any petroleum before using. It won't stick to the metal of the chain with a petroleum film in the way. Read the label.
2. Dry Teflon Lube. Very good lubrication as Teflon is the slipperiest substance known. It works with a carrying agent just like the wax. It is a bit wetter as the carrier has a light oil to try to keep the Teflon in place as Teflon itself is transferable. Too slippery to stay on it's own when not baked on like a frying pan. Teflon as a lubricant is like tiny micron sized bearings and they are in the plastic family. They wont break down in water but can be flushed out easily with detergents that break down the carrying oil.
3. Wet lubes. Think of them as just better oil for the task than motor oil. They still attract dirt and need more cleaning. Water resistant to rain and actually the best choice in the rain, as long as you know you will have a cleaning job when you are done in the rain.
4. New tech ceramic impregnated lube. This is the new twist on the wax and Teflon. A carrier bring ceramic powder that burnishes onto the metal. It takes a couple applications to get it right with break in riding in between. (read the label) It promises to be the best of all words -- if it works.Anything wrong with using motor oil(synthethic) on a bicycle chain and gears?
Yes -- it attracts dirt and grime like there's no tomorrow, and any bike shop mechanic that has to work on your rig is going to want to punch you in the head.
As a bicycle mechanic, nothing annoys me more. Spend $7 on a tube of synthetic, bicycle-specific chain lube -- it's designed to lubricate without attracting more dirt into the chain (which reduces its lifespan). Only requires a few drops. A tube should last you at least a year.Anything wrong with using motor oil(synthethic) on a bicycle chain and gears?
Motor oil is too thick to use on bicycle chains. You want a thin mineral oil that can get into the rollers and provide lubrication. You never want to oil a dirty chain because it will wash the grit into the rollers. You want to degrease the chain and remove the grid before oiling. Never use WD-40
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-lubricatio鈥?/a>
http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-cha鈥?/a>
I say NO without having any facts to back my opinion. Have never seen any facts to justify expensive commercial chain lube either. Lots of hype, but no facts. Maybe somebody can point us to them.
Clean well, oil, and wipe down real good. Use the lowest weight oil you can get. The wiping is important to retard the accumulation of road grit on the exterior parts of the chain.
I think one of the selling points of chain lubes is less accumulation of grit, and they aren't as messy when applying. After a few miles tho, my chains are just as black using chain lubes as with motor oil. And the crap won't hardly wash out of fabric, especially anything synthetic.
Sheldon Brown in the link talks about ';oil'; without specifying anything.
Edit: Give McG the 10 points he deserves for the most informed answer.
Other than Making a Mess and wearing off, Nothing.
if you use Oil for Bicycle chains, it has a ingredient that bonds to the chain to protect it from moisture, regular motor oil does not have this, and comes off the chain during use.
regular oils attract dirt and break down faster. bicycle lube with teflon is the best ( finishline) brand. i know i've had to clean up lots of chains and drive lines. use to have own shop and still do maint %26amp; repair.
Yes! Don't be cheap, get the good stuff. But if you are asking this question, you are probably stupid enough that you bought your bike from walmart, so go ahead, smoother it in motor oil and have fun.
Oil is oil, I use any oil on my bike.myspace bulletins
You don't want to use motor oil because it will:
1. Sling off the chain as it it made to film off of parts and be pumped though a filter and back into engine parts. Engineers worked really hard to make it perfect for that job.
2. Attract dirt. Another property that those good petroleum engineers did was make a product that carries the contaminants to the filter. Bikes don't of course have that filter so the gritty material will wear your chain and gears.
3. It is wash out resistant. Good for resisting rain, but it resists mild chain cleaners too. Oh, you can cut it, but usually to remove it all you need a solvent not detergent.
The types of products you want for a chain:
1. Wax based ';dry'; lubricant. This is a modern formulation of a wax made to emulate paraffin that used to be melted onto chains. This new chemical mix is a carrying solvent and wax that penetrates where you need it and the solvent evaporates leaving the wax behind to do the lubrication. Since wax is dry no attraction of dirt. Wax is also very water proof so it's good in the rain. Draw back is that this formula is the hardest to clean off a chain, and your chain had to be thoroughly cleaned of any petroleum before using. It won't stick to the metal of the chain with a petroleum film in the way. Read the label.
2. Dry Teflon Lube. Very good lubrication as Teflon is the slipperiest substance known. It works with a carrying agent just like the wax. It is a bit wetter as the carrier has a light oil to try to keep the Teflon in place as Teflon itself is transferable. Too slippery to stay on it's own when not baked on like a frying pan. Teflon as a lubricant is like tiny micron sized bearings and they are in the plastic family. They wont break down in water but can be flushed out easily with detergents that break down the carrying oil.
3. Wet lubes. Think of them as just better oil for the task than motor oil. They still attract dirt and need more cleaning. Water resistant to rain and actually the best choice in the rain, as long as you know you will have a cleaning job when you are done in the rain.
4. New tech ceramic impregnated lube. This is the new twist on the wax and Teflon. A carrier bring ceramic powder that burnishes onto the metal. It takes a couple applications to get it right with break in riding in between. (read the label) It promises to be the best of all words -- if it works.Anything wrong with using motor oil(synthethic) on a bicycle chain and gears?
Yes -- it attracts dirt and grime like there's no tomorrow, and any bike shop mechanic that has to work on your rig is going to want to punch you in the head.
As a bicycle mechanic, nothing annoys me more. Spend $7 on a tube of synthetic, bicycle-specific chain lube -- it's designed to lubricate without attracting more dirt into the chain (which reduces its lifespan). Only requires a few drops. A tube should last you at least a year.Anything wrong with using motor oil(synthethic) on a bicycle chain and gears?
Motor oil is too thick to use on bicycle chains. You want a thin mineral oil that can get into the rollers and provide lubrication. You never want to oil a dirty chain because it will wash the grit into the rollers. You want to degrease the chain and remove the grid before oiling. Never use WD-40
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-lubricatio鈥?/a>
http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-cha鈥?/a>
I say NO without having any facts to back my opinion. Have never seen any facts to justify expensive commercial chain lube either. Lots of hype, but no facts. Maybe somebody can point us to them.
Clean well, oil, and wipe down real good. Use the lowest weight oil you can get. The wiping is important to retard the accumulation of road grit on the exterior parts of the chain.
I think one of the selling points of chain lubes is less accumulation of grit, and they aren't as messy when applying. After a few miles tho, my chains are just as black using chain lubes as with motor oil. And the crap won't hardly wash out of fabric, especially anything synthetic.
Sheldon Brown in the link talks about ';oil'; without specifying anything.
Edit: Give McG the 10 points he deserves for the most informed answer.
Other than Making a Mess and wearing off, Nothing.
if you use Oil for Bicycle chains, it has a ingredient that bonds to the chain to protect it from moisture, regular motor oil does not have this, and comes off the chain during use.
regular oils attract dirt and break down faster. bicycle lube with teflon is the best ( finishline) brand. i know i've had to clean up lots of chains and drive lines. use to have own shop and still do maint %26amp; repair.
Yes! Don't be cheap, get the good stuff. But if you are asking this question, you are probably stupid enough that you bought your bike from walmart, so go ahead, smoother it in motor oil and have fun.
Oil is oil, I use any oil on my bike.
Have you replaced your motor oil with KY?
This is 'Cars %26amp; Transportation'; not ';Rubber Dollies';.Have you replaced your motor oil with KY?
If its for an internal combustion engine, then KY does not belong, under any circumstances.. If its for personal use, I seem to have enough motor oil, and do not require KY for that either. Why spend money for something you already have.Have you replaced your motor oil with KY?
Why do you ask, did you replace your KY with motor oil and find it easier to use than KY, and therefore think KY might do better in an engine?
I hope your finger goes in your b#m easier now...
What's KY? If you're speaking of water soluble KY jelly or personal lubricant it doesn't belong in an internal combustion engine! There are no additives to protect frictional surfaces.
Yeah, works just fine. Try it for yourself and let us know.
If its for an internal combustion engine, then KY does not belong, under any circumstances.. If its for personal use, I seem to have enough motor oil, and do not require KY for that either. Why spend money for something you already have.Have you replaced your motor oil with KY?
Why do you ask, did you replace your KY with motor oil and find it easier to use than KY, and therefore think KY might do better in an engine?
I hope your finger goes in your b#m easier now...
What's KY? If you're speaking of water soluble KY jelly or personal lubricant it doesn't belong in an internal combustion engine! There are no additives to protect frictional surfaces.
Yeah, works just fine. Try it for yourself and let us know.
1982 Subaru EA81 motor loses water into the crankcase and emulsifies the oil.?
I've replaced the head gaskets, no cracks in the heads and no obvious external water leaks, so there must be some sort of an internal problem in the crankcases. The freeze plugs are not rusted through and there is nothing obviously wrong externally. These motors run vertically split aluminium crankcases joined together with an internal 'O' ring to seal the water gallery from the crankcase.
The decreasing level of water in the radiator is matched by an ever increasing level of emulsified oil on the dipstick.
Has anybody ever experienced this problem before please or does anybody know a possible cause for the (internal) water leakage? Could it be internally corroded crankcases or is there possibly a simpler solution?1982 Subaru EA81 motor loses water into the crankcase and emulsifies the oil.?
We had a problem with an early subaru at my workshop a while back, we tried everything that you did, to no avail.
We contacted subaru and they told us that the material the heads were cast from was faulty and under pressure when hot the heads would become pourous and allow water to flood into the crankcase, they told us it was not a usual occurence but probable if we have exhausted all other avenues of investigation and come up with nothing.
We changed the heads, and hey presto the water leakage into the crankcase stopped.
The best way to check the internal seal is to drain all the oil from the crank case, leave the plug out and put the cooling system under pressure with a pressure tester, if the seal is faulty, water will come pouring out the sump plug hole, if no water comes out then it may be that you have pourous heads.1982 Subaru EA81 motor loses water into the crankcase and emulsifies the oil.?
Did you get the head pressure tested before you replaced the head/gasket?
did you check the head for warping?
start wit the intake gaskets an then check the head gaskets check all bolts an did you use the right seqence on tightening the headbolts.
The decreasing level of water in the radiator is matched by an ever increasing level of emulsified oil on the dipstick.
Has anybody ever experienced this problem before please or does anybody know a possible cause for the (internal) water leakage? Could it be internally corroded crankcases or is there possibly a simpler solution?1982 Subaru EA81 motor loses water into the crankcase and emulsifies the oil.?
We had a problem with an early subaru at my workshop a while back, we tried everything that you did, to no avail.
We contacted subaru and they told us that the material the heads were cast from was faulty and under pressure when hot the heads would become pourous and allow water to flood into the crankcase, they told us it was not a usual occurence but probable if we have exhausted all other avenues of investigation and come up with nothing.
We changed the heads, and hey presto the water leakage into the crankcase stopped.
The best way to check the internal seal is to drain all the oil from the crank case, leave the plug out and put the cooling system under pressure with a pressure tester, if the seal is faulty, water will come pouring out the sump plug hole, if no water comes out then it may be that you have pourous heads.1982 Subaru EA81 motor loses water into the crankcase and emulsifies the oil.?
Did you get the head pressure tested before you replaced the head/gasket?
did you check the head for warping?
start wit the intake gaskets an then check the head gaskets check all bolts an did you use the right seqence on tightening the headbolts.
Will a Neon or PT Cruiser oil cap fit onto a Dodge Caliber motor?
Im shopping around for custom oil caps, and I own a Caliber, but the oil cap I want comes for Dodge Neon and PT Cruiser, both are which were made by Chrysler (dodge) The Caliber which actually replaced th Neon is a similar car, so is the Cruiser. The engine I have is a 2.0L 4cylinder. Thanks :)Will a Neon or PT Cruiser oil cap fit onto a Dodge Caliber motor?
I'm not sure they would ,but i would try it,since most of the parts for those are interchangeable now ,id try it,pt cruiser and the dodge status are about the same on engine parts,and some of the neon's parts also interchange,on something like that id try it,good luck with it.Will a Neon or PT Cruiser oil cap fit onto a Dodge Caliber motor?
not sure most likely though. get it and find out. oil caps aren't very expensive
I don't think it will fit. The 2.0 engine in the Caliber is a new design, different from the 2.4 in the PT and Neon (assumming it also the 2.4, not sure what engine it had). If you want to try it on the cheap see about purchasing one off of a PT or Neon from a local salvage yard. Or go to a PT owning friend's house and ask if you can make a trial fit on your Caliber. If it fits then you know it will work. Your other option is try an oil cap cover, but before you buy you'll need to compare the diameter measurement of the PT or Neon's cap with the Caliber's cap.
I'm not sure they would ,but i would try it,since most of the parts for those are interchangeable now ,id try it,pt cruiser and the dodge status are about the same on engine parts,and some of the neon's parts also interchange,on something like that id try it,good luck with it.Will a Neon or PT Cruiser oil cap fit onto a Dodge Caliber motor?
not sure most likely though. get it and find out. oil caps aren't very expensive
I don't think it will fit. The 2.0 engine in the Caliber is a new design, different from the 2.4 in the PT and Neon (assumming it also the 2.4, not sure what engine it had). If you want to try it on the cheap see about purchasing one off of a PT or Neon from a local salvage yard. Or go to a PT owning friend's house and ask if you can make a trial fit on your Caliber. If it fits then you know it will work. Your other option is try an oil cap cover, but before you buy you'll need to compare the diameter measurement of the PT or Neon's cap with the Caliber's cap.
If janice purchased three 24-ounce cans of motor oil for$10.80,how much did she pay per ounce?
A$.45
B.$.15
C.$2.59
D.$3.60If janice purchased three 24-ounce cans of motor oil for$10.80,how much did she pay per ounce?
no. of cans=3
total ounce=3*24
total money spent=$10.80
total money spent for per ounce=$10.8/(3*24)=$.15
So,the answer is (B)If janice purchased three 24-ounce cans of motor oil for$10.80,how much did she pay per ounce?
3*24=72
10.80/72= 0.15
so, the answer is b
24 x 3 = 72
then you just divide 10.8 by 72
that's bad.. do Ur own homework!! You are not going to get anywhere in life with someone else giving you the answers!
b
hahahahahha..Janice is a funny name.
what was the question again?
B
show your work.
10.80 divided by 3 cans = 3.60
That's 3.60 per 24 ounce can
Divide $3.60 byb 24 ouces. Which equals .15 per ounce.
B.$.15
C.$2.59
D.$3.60If janice purchased three 24-ounce cans of motor oil for$10.80,how much did she pay per ounce?
no. of cans=3
total ounce=3*24
total money spent=$10.80
total money spent for per ounce=$10.8/(3*24)=$.15
So,the answer is (B)If janice purchased three 24-ounce cans of motor oil for$10.80,how much did she pay per ounce?
3*24=72
10.80/72= 0.15
so, the answer is b
24 x 3 = 72
then you just divide 10.8 by 72
that's bad.. do Ur own homework!! You are not going to get anywhere in life with someone else giving you the answers!
b
hahahahahha..Janice is a funny name.
what was the question again?
B
show your work.
10.80 divided by 3 cans = 3.60
That's 3.60 per 24 ounce can
Divide $3.60 byb 24 ouces. Which equals .15 per ounce.
Is it ok two mix motor oil and synthetic motor oil together?
i add a gt of synthetic motor oil in my carIs it ok two mix motor oil and synthetic motor oil together?
They are compatible, don't worry about it.Is it ok two mix motor oil and synthetic motor oil together?
wouldnt hurt anything but wouldnt do it all the time either if a car needs oil it needs oil an dhaving oil in it better than not having oil so that matters more than if you mix it or not and if it bugs you just change the oil you could have added a old use bottle of oil and wouldnt have hurt it has much as not having oil at all your ok drive on
I wouldn't do it if I were you. There is a reason why synthetic blend is called that and NOT synthetic random mixture. Also another one, if you do go to using synthetic oil, pretty much there isn't much of any going back.
Yes. It's called a synthetic blend.
They are compatible, don't worry about it.Is it ok two mix motor oil and synthetic motor oil together?
wouldnt hurt anything but wouldnt do it all the time either if a car needs oil it needs oil an dhaving oil in it better than not having oil so that matters more than if you mix it or not and if it bugs you just change the oil you could have added a old use bottle of oil and wouldnt have hurt it has much as not having oil at all your ok drive on
I wouldn't do it if I were you. There is a reason why synthetic blend is called that and NOT synthetic random mixture. Also another one, if you do go to using synthetic oil, pretty much there isn't much of any going back.
Yes. It's called a synthetic blend.
Best Motor Oil for 2000 Jetta VR6 GLX?
It has 110k miles and I've always used synthetic, just whichever one they've put in at Plaza Tire Service. Last time they used Kendall.
Any good recommendations for what oil to use?Best Motor Oil for 2000 Jetta VR6 GLX?
Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40. Very robust and able to be used year round. VW's like the 40-grade oils and that's probably the best over-the-counter 40-grade out there, along with Mobil 1 0W-40. Either would work great.Best Motor Oil for 2000 Jetta VR6 GLX?
dance with the one who brung you.
a good synthetic will be fine in the future. actually synthetic is what most VW dealers use. all i went to used castrol syntec actually.myspace bulletins
Any good recommendations for what oil to use?Best Motor Oil for 2000 Jetta VR6 GLX?
Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40. Very robust and able to be used year round. VW's like the 40-grade oils and that's probably the best over-the-counter 40-grade out there, along with Mobil 1 0W-40. Either would work great.Best Motor Oil for 2000 Jetta VR6 GLX?
dance with the one who brung you.
a good synthetic will be fine in the future. actually synthetic is what most VW dealers use. all i went to used castrol syntec actually.
I have an electric generator in my motor Home which needs oil. What kind of oil does a generator use?
30 w oil is what you what to use, A 10w 30 or 10w40 will not provide enough lubrication when the engine is hot!!
You should actually change the oil in the generator regularly, it usually is a very easy thing to do, and will increase your engine life!I have an electric generator in my motor Home which needs oil. What kind of oil does a generator use?
It uses the same kind of motor oil as your vehicle's engine. I recommend using a name brand (such as Quaker State, Valvoline, Mobil, Shell, etc.) and going with a 10W-40 weight. It should be rated at least ';SF.';
If your vehicle and generator are diesels, be sure the oil you get is rated for diesels. Almost all quality motor oils today are fine for both diesel and gasoline engines.I have an electric generator in my motor Home which needs oil. What kind of oil does a generator use?
I would use a good grade standard 30W.. But if you have the money, I would use a synthetic 30W. I have a 5KW onan.. And I use the standard 30W.. And it works great.. And I have used it over 10 years.. But you could always check with the Manufacture..
Dave
ANY SMALL ENGINE OIL IF YOU DON'T KNOW GO TO A SMALL ENGINE YOU NEED TO KNOW IF IT IS A 2STROKE OR 4STROKE ENGINE MOTOR BIKE SHOPS WILL HELP YOU
You should actually change the oil in the generator regularly, it usually is a very easy thing to do, and will increase your engine life!I have an electric generator in my motor Home which needs oil. What kind of oil does a generator use?
It uses the same kind of motor oil as your vehicle's engine. I recommend using a name brand (such as Quaker State, Valvoline, Mobil, Shell, etc.) and going with a 10W-40 weight. It should be rated at least ';SF.';
If your vehicle and generator are diesels, be sure the oil you get is rated for diesels. Almost all quality motor oils today are fine for both diesel and gasoline engines.I have an electric generator in my motor Home which needs oil. What kind of oil does a generator use?
I would use a good grade standard 30W.. But if you have the money, I would use a synthetic 30W. I have a 5KW onan.. And I use the standard 30W.. And it works great.. And I have used it over 10 years.. But you could always check with the Manufacture..
Dave
ANY SMALL ENGINE OIL IF YOU DON'T KNOW GO TO A SMALL ENGINE YOU NEED TO KNOW IF IT IS A 2STROKE OR 4STROKE ENGINE MOTOR BIKE SHOPS WILL HELP YOU
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